#17. This 🇸🇰Slovak City on the Danube is Where Royal Coronations👑 Meet 🛸UFO Towers

Boasting an unofficial population of almost 700,000, Bratislava, the capital and largest city of the Slovak Republic (Slovakia), sits at a unique crossroads of Central Europe, nestled on the banks of both the Danube and Morava rivers and at the foot of the Little Carpathians mountain range. With its strategic location bordering both Austria and Hungary, Bratislava stands alone as the only national capital to share borders with two countries.

Its rich history stretches back to Neolithic times, around 5000 B.C. (during the Linear Pottery Culture horizon), when it was founded as one of the first permanent settlements, a stark shift away from hunter-gatherer lifestyles that preceded it for hundreds of thousands of years. The city only began to really take shape after Celtic settlement in 200 B.C., and later, as a Roman outpost renowned for grape growing and winemaking - traditions that are still near and dear to the city today.

Subsequent centuries saw Bratislava, formerly known as both Pressburg and Pozsony, and its eclectic history shaped by Austrian, Bulgarian, Croat, Czech, Hungarian, and German influence, with various empires vying for control of the city and its advantageous geographic positioning. From the mid-16th century to the late 18th century, the Habsburg Monarchy designated Bratislava as the legislative and coronation epicenter of the Kingdom of Hungary - St. Martin’s Cathedral being the esteemed coronation site of 11 kings and 8 queens. 

While the late-17th century Bratislava endured significant hardship after a devastating bout of the plague that wiped out nearly one-third of its population, the 18th-century reign of Queen Maria Theresa was a time of great prosperity and saw the city transform into a bustling cultural and social hub with growing monasteries, mansions and villas, and community and educational arts. 

After a period of decline following the transfer of Hungary’s central governance to Budapest, and the post-World War I dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Bratislava’s upward trajectory shifted dramatically. As a part of the newly formed Czechoslovakia, the city fell to Nazi and Communist occupation and influence and was used as a test bed for Eastern Bloc architectural projects and heritage. 1989 saw brighter days when the city became the symbol and center of the non-violent Velvet Revolution demonstrations against the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia, ultimately emerging as the capital of the new, independent Slovak Republic (1993). 

Today, Bratislava is Slovakia’s political, economic, and beating cultural heart and a city of contrasts, far different than how it’s portrayed in the legendary early-2000’s movie EuroTrip, blending medieval and Renaissance architecture with modern (quirky) skyscrapers, contemporary museums and historic theaters, rustic Central European restaurants and vegan cafes, and old Soviet-era housing blocks and luxury villas. 

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Breaking Down the Bustling Burgh of Bratislava

Must-See Attractions

Bratislava is an extremely compact and walkable city, with most of its major sites and attractions concentrated around the Old Town. Visitors can easily explore ‘Blava’ (another one of its many nicknames) within just a 15 to 20-minute stroll (or less). 

The two key hubs of the city are Hlavne Namestie (Main Square) and Hviezdoslavovo Namestie (Hviezdoslav Square). 

• The first site to catch your eye upon arriving in Bratislava will inevitably be the Bratislava Castle. Perched atop a rocky hill of the southwestern portion of the Little Carpathians and overlooking the Danube River, this iconic Gothic-Renaissance castle dominates the city’s skyline. While destroyed by a fire in the early 19th century, the Bratislava Castle was carefully rebuilt and restored. Make sure to head to the top for sweeping views of the city, Austria, and even Hungary (on clear days). 

  • The second floor is home to historical and music exhibitions of the Slovak National Museum, one of the most important institutions in the country focusing on scientific research and cultural education.

  • You’ll also find the Treasure Chamber of the west wing, which is comprised of rare archaeological finds and objects found in Slovakia, including a prehistoric statue of the Venus of Moravany, along with further exhibitions of Slovakia’s history on the 3rd floor, the Music Hall in the northern wing (where concerts are still held), and where the Slovak parliament meets on the first floor. 

• In the dead center of the Old Town is Slovakia’s oldest town hall (aka the Old Town Hall) and one of the country’s oldest stone buildings. Home to the Bratislava City Museum, the Town Hall is a go-to place for a deep dive into the city’s history via archaeological finds, historical documents, and other items donated by citizens. You’ll even find an exhibit on medieval torture devices!

• As the former Kingdom of Hungary’s coronation mecca, no trip to Bratislava is complete without a stop by St. Martin’s Cathedral - a three-nave Gothic cathedral with an 85-meter-tall neo-Gothic tower (accentuated by a gold-plated replica of the Crown of St. Stephen), four chapels, catacombs, and stained-glass windows. Panoramic views of the Old Town are a must from the tower. 

  • Make sure to swing over to the Clarissine Church, just a 3-minute walk from St. Martin’s, which is part of a collection of Gothic and Renaissance buildings that formed the former Convent of The Poor Clares - an enclosed order of nuns in the Roman Catholic Church. 

• Don’t forget to stop by Michael’s Gate, Bratislava’s only remaining city gate from its 14th-century medieval fortifications which now houses the ‘Exhibition of Weapons’ of the Bratislava City Museum. Marked by an onion-shaped roof, its gate tower is one of the key landmarks of the city’s Old Town and also a perfect spot to climb for stunning city and Bratislava Castle views (from the 6th-floor balcony).

• A stark contrast to the Old Town’s medieval buildings and structures is the prominent and unorthodox flying saucer-shaped UFO Tower atop the Most SNP (Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising), which runs over the Danube River. The tower houses an observation deck and restaurant which serves up traditional Slovak fare along with international dishes and provides 360-degree views of the city, including the Soviet-era Petržalka apartment blocks. This is one spot that is definitely best experienced at sunset!

Cultural Experiences

• Bratislava is a museum lover’s paradise, with several must-visit spots that cater to a variety of social and cultural interests. The Slovak National Gallery sports an impressive collection of both Slovak Gothic and Central European medieval and Baroque-era art, alongside a handful of rotating contemporary and modern art exhibitions, while the Bratislava City Museum (mentioned above) is geared towards those looking to dive into the city’s evolution via a range of artifacts, sculptures, and documents! But what may “take the museum cake” in Bratislava is the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, a modern art gallery dramatically located on a peninsula jutting out of the Danube. Complete with stunning sculpture gardens, this museum is a tranquil escape from the compact, bustling city center (best accessed by Uber or Bolt). 

  • Keep in mind that both the Slovak National Gallery and Bratislava City Museum are a network of museums and boast a collection of exhibits that can be found across the city! 

• Overlooking the Old Town, Slavín is both a military cemetery and a memorial for Soviet soldiers who lost their lives in World War II. Its towering 40-meter obelisk and 11-meter statue of a victorious Soviet soldier make it one of the most visible (and iconic) landmarks in the city. While the site carries mixed emotions for locals - as it commemorates the defeat and freeing from Nazi occupation while providing a reminder of the dark Soviet communist times, it’s one of the city’s best vantage points. Slavín is also located in one of Bratislava’s wealthiest districts and a great spot for a scenic walk past the elegant Austro-Hungarian villas adjacent to modern constructions by Slovakia’s nouveau riche. 

• Bratislava is world-renowned for the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra, which performs in the Baroque-era Reduta Bratislava concert hall just a stone’s throw away from the Danube. There aren’t many better spots for world-class performances at affordable prices. Further, the Slovak National Theater (Slovakia’s oldest professional theater), just 10 minutes to the east, is a powerhouse for opera, ballet, and drama, holding performances nearly every single day during theater season (September to late June). 

• This last one is cultural as Slovakians are absolutely rabid for hockey. As the country’s national sport, you owe it to yourself to check out the local team HV Slovan Bratislava, which has produced countless NHL stars. The season runs from September to March and games are held at the Ondrej Nepela Arena, easily reachable by public transportation. 

Local Cuisine & Beer/Alcohol Scene

• For such a small, compact city, especially compared to its neighbors like Vienna and Budapest, Bratislava packs both a traditional and international (and even vegan) gustatorial punch. Slovak cuisine, like much Central European fare, is defined by an emphasis on hearty, comforting ingredients like wheat, potatoes, meat, milk, and cheese - lots of cheese (all perfect for weathering the harsh winters). 

• A must-try, and my number one favorite Slovak dish, is Bryndzové Halušky, or what I call ‘adult mac n’ cheese’. As the national dish of Slovakia, expect all the favorites to be rolled out in this one, including small potato dumplings, similar to gnocchi, coated in tangy, creamy sheep’s milk cheese (bryndza), and topped with crispy, salty bacon bits. It’s rich, it’s filling, and it had me ready to put a good day’s work chopping wood on the farm in the dead of winter. 

  • Note: While bryndza gets the bulk of the love in Slovakia, don’t sleep on Oštiepok, a second type of sheep’s cheese that’s smoked and typically served as an accompaniment to assorted meat platters. 

• If you’re more of a traditional dumpling guy or gal, don’t worry, Slovakians crimp those like the best of ‘em as well - stuffing their ‘pirohy’ with familiar fillings like pork, bacon, cabbage, and onions, along with sweeter, more dessert-ish concoctions like rum-spiced jam, vanilla sauce, and even chocolate. 

• Another local favorite is a slow-cooked venison stew with bread dumplings (knedlíky) to sop up any remaining bits. Slovakia’s broad-leaved and mixed forests and meadows allow for plenty of environmentally friendly, sustainable game meat, making it popular on local Slovak restaurant menus. Other Central European favorites like goulash and schnitzel are almost always “on deck” as well, along with a more pungent treat (ubiquitously found in Slovak households) - garlic soup served in a hollowed-out bread bowl. Don’t go kissing any vampires after you have this. 

• And, if you’re on the go, don’t forget to pick up Bratislava’s answer to street food, the ‘Richman’. Picture a monstrous bread roll stuffed with a range of fillings, from cabbage to cheese or meat, all mixed with mayonnaise. 

• I’d be remiss not to mention that the sheer number of fantastic pies, pastries, and desserts in Bratislava blew me away, especially the warm apple pie with ice cream (a classic), žemlovka, a baked dessert with bread slices and cinnamon spiced fruits, and kolaches, sweet pastry rolls stuffed with assorted jams. 

• Don’t forget to wash it all down with the beloved carbonated, herby ‘Kofola’, Slovakia’s answer to Coca-Cola (it’s one of the few countries in the world where Coke and Pepsi don’t dominate the carbonated beverage market), a crisp, light Czech-style lager in a round tübinger glass, or the extremely potent juniper-based spirit Borovička, which is often compared to gin (however, taste-wise, I’d call it more of a gin-vodka hybrid). 

I don’t want to besmirch the good name of Kofola but I had high hopes for it. Unfortunately, I don’t think it packs that same carbonated punch that Coke and Pepsi do. Also, its herbiness really comes through so I imagine it’s somewhat more of an acquired taste. I’m still #TeamPepsi. 

Bratislava Insider 

Best Time to Visit 

• Generally, both the summer and fall are the best times to visit Bratislava thanks to its warm (but not too warm) and milder temperatures, lively festivals (such as the Bratislava ‘Coronation Days’), and late sunsets. 

  • As one of the driest parts of the country, summers are especially enjoyable and recommended for visiting due to the low probability of having your plans “rained out.”

  • Fall is also host to the Young Wine Festival - which showcases the best of Slovak wines and local produce. See, I told you that winemaking is at the heart of the Slovak identity and history. 

• If you’re a fan of milder weather and outdoor activities (ex. planning to hike the Little Carpathians or Sandberg), late April to early June is a prime time to make the trip over. Late spring also coincides with several major festivals like Bratislava Majáles, an annual festival that celebrates spring’s arrival with outdoor concerts, food stalls, and various cultural activities, and the May Ball, an urban open-air multi-genre festival with dance parties, theater performances, fireworks, and more along the Danube riverbanks. 

• I’ll say it. Europe does Christmas and winter exponentially better than my home country of the United States. And Bratislava is no exception. Cafes and restaurants galore lining the cobbled streets of the Old Town with outdoor heaters and blankets for customers, bustling Christmas markets with traditional Slovak snacks, games, and mulled wine, and more outdoor ice skating rinks than you can shake a stick at all make this city the ideal spot for those wanting to take full advantage of a white Christmas, without needing to shovel several feet of snow. 

Hidden Gems/Local Secrets

• Just north of the city center stands one of the country’s most polarizing architectural wonders: the Slovak Radio Building. Shaped like a reverse pyramid, this striking structure has been the subject of both international acclaim and critique, with some architects considering it one of the most important contemporary buildings of the last half-century, and others viewing it as a relic of the Eastern Bloc and Communist Era. Declared a cultural heritage monument in 2017, it even made an appearance in the Jennifer Lawrence movie Red Sparrow. 

• For a tranquil refuge from the packed city center, head to Sandberg, a sandstone hill located in the Devínska Nová Ves borough of Bratislava (bordered by the Morava River) and part of the Devínska Kobyla National Nature Reserve. While nowhere close to the ocean, this sandy beach of a hill (and cliffs) and the surrounding area is popular for hiking and spectacular views of the countryside. 

• Make sure to pair your trip to Sandberg with a visit to the nearby Devín Castle, considered one of Slovakia’s most significant historical sites. Positioned on a cliff at the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers (on the border of Slovakia and Austria), the site of the castle has been settled since the Neolithic Age, playing an integral role in the region’s defense for centuries. Head up to the Maiden Tower, a tiny watchtower perched on a rock. It’s the castle’s most iconic feature and one of the most photographed spots in Bratislava.

  • Don’t miss the museum housed within the castle, which has archaeological exhibits and other installations in memory of the Iron Curtain. Easily accessible by bus, this is the perfect day trip for those staying in Bratislava for more than a day. 

• If you’re feeling a relaxing escape that’s a stone’s throw away from the heart of the city, make the trek across the Most SNP and Danube to Janko Kráľ Park - one of Europe’s oldest municipal parks (late-1800s). The park’s layout is designed in the shape of an eight-legged star, with tree-lined walking paths jutting outward, making it an enjoyable spot for a stroll, picnic, or nature-watching. At the center, you’ll find a statue of the man behind the park’s name, Janko Kráľ, one of Slovakia’s most romantic and radical poets. 

• History enthusiasts will rejoice after a trip to the Ancient Gerulata (remember how I mentioned Bratislava was an old Roman outpost?), a UNESCO World Heritage Site preserving the remains of the Roman military camp and settlement at the very beginning of the city’s history. Visitors can explore the remnants of the camp’s forum, fragments of ancient structures, and artifacts like gravestones, ceramics, bronze, and stone pieces, to gain better insight into the daily life of the Roman Empire and its residents. 

• Finally, if you want to experience local Bratislavan life in its most vibrant and authentic form, swing over to the popular open-air market Trhovisko Miletičova. Located on the site of a former slaughterhouse of the late 19th century, this local market offers everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to flowers, and even seafood like langoustines. Grab a midday snack or coffee and explore the various stalls! 

Travel Tips

• While Bratislava is often seen as a day-trip destination, particularly for those visiting Vienna, I can assure you that it decidedly commands more than a day or two to get a proper feel for the city. 

  • Yes, while the Old Town is compact and easily traversed in an afternoon, the countless surrounding sites and areas, along with its affordable and energetic nightlife that far outpaces some surrounding metropolises, make this a city one that you can easily spend more than a single week exploring (I spent upwards of 2 weeks here). 

• Make sure to take advantage of Bratislava’s excellent transportation network, specifically the tram network. While most tourist sites and attractions are well within walking distance, anything beyond is easily accessible thanks to the numerous trams and buses (that run late into the night). Just remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding at one of the ticket machines. 

• If you’re an intrepid explorer who is looking to tackle more than one or two sites in a day (or weekend), consider picking up a Bratislava Card - available for 24, 48, or 72 hours. Not only do you get free access to public transportation but you’ll also have free entry to 23-plus museums and galleries, discounts at popular restaurants, AND a free guided walking tour of Bratislava’s downtown. Starting at just over 25 euros for the 24-hour card, this is an absolute steal. 

• A general rule of thumb in Bratislava is that you should avoid hailing taxis outside of the train station and in central, touristy areas, as these typically lead to overpriced fares and the occasional scam. Both Uber and Bolt are readily available in Bratislava and I can confidently say that I never encountered a lack of available cars (and I tested this at all hours). 

Big Body’s Bratislava Bonanza Highlights

• The most memorable experience for this Big Body in Bratislava was spending roughly one week of my two-week stint with one of my best buddies. A somewhat itinerant Bohemian who loves wearing bathing suits and floral Hawaiian shirts, we had first met at a Bitcoin meetup in Taipei and quickly hit it off. As fate would have it, we both moved to Saigon within a month of each other and we then ran into each other again at another crypto-related meetup. We spent the week slugging pivos (beers) and crushing hummus platters at Urban House, exploring Bratislava’s Bitcoin cafes and coworking spaces (unfortunately, most went under), and working our way through as many museums as possible. 

• I also spent several nights gambling at the Banco Casino (smack-dab in the middle of the city). The first night, in particular, stands out, when after slugging borovička with everyone at my table and their grandmother, I met a friendly local who got chatting and invited me over for dinner the next night. This was undoubtedly one of the best nights of my entire Europe trip. His wife prepared homemade halušky, which I can assure you puts restaurant halušky to shame, and we spent the night playing board games, chatting about life, and of course, drinking several bottles of borovička. 

Sittin’ on Top of the World in Da-Bratislava

I traveled to Bratislava with absolutely zero expectations. In fact, I was only planning on staying for just one or two days while I caught my breath before making the trek over to Budapest. 

However, after my first night out on the town, which led to meeting a friend I still regularly keep in touch with to this day while tossing back enough borovička to kill an elephant, it felt right to hunker down for the next several weeks. I also had a hangover so terrible that I was in no shape to travel. 

But, this proved to be one of the best decisions I made during my first six-month Europe stint, as I discovered a city that was right up my alley in terms of nearly everything I look for (convenience, work-friendly cafes, top-notch beer culture, traditional cuisine with international flair, and affordability).

Don’t let the Bratislava naysayers convince you it’s a quick day trip from Vienna. Get over there and see for yourself. I know you won’t be disappointed. 

If you have any questions about traveling to Bratislava, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email ([email protected]). And, if there are any other destinations you’d like to see featured, I’d love to hear from you!

Travel well everyone,

Big Body