#16. From🛕Temples to Tuk-Tuks🛺, This 🇰🇭Cambodian City Isn’t For the Faint of Heart

With a burgeoning population of over 2.5 million residents, roughly 15% of Cambodia’s entire population, Phnom Penh is a vibrant Southeast Asian metropolis that sits at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. 

While the city’s origins stretch back to the 5th century AD when it operated as one of the largest kiln pottery centers in the country, its true founding is rooted in a legend from the late 14th century. It’s said that a local woman named ‘Lady Penh’ discovered a floating tree containing four Buddha statues and one Vishnu statue while gathering firewood. Taking this as a divine sign, she forged a small hill on the bank of the Tonlé Sap River to house them, ultimately giving the city its name - ‘Phnom’, meaning hill in Khmer, and ‘Penh’ after its matriarch founder. 

Phnom Penh has a complex, tumultuous, and intermittent history as a royal capital of the country, abandoned numerous times in its history due to political instability and internal conflict. However, in 1866, under the reign of King Norodom I and the French protectorate, Phnom Penh became the permanent seat of government and the official capital of Cambodia. Under the French colonial empire, Phnom Penh flourished, growing rapidly to become an epicenter of textiles, rice milling, and even pharmaceuticals, earning the nickname the ‘Pearl of Asia’. 

However, home to countless top-tier universities and institutions of higher learning, it was Phnom Penh’s cultural and intellectual heritage that defined it. 

This, unfortunately, was persecuted by the radical communist movement the ‘Khmer Rouge’, led by the dictator Pol Pot, in the mid-1970s after they seized the capital, hurling Cambodia into one of the darkest periods in human history - a reign characterized by genocide, oppression, and widespread famine. Liberated just four years later in 1979 by the People’s Army of Vietnam, the devastating impact and scars of this dark period are still felt today. 

In subsequent years, Phnom Penh has undergone exponential growth, emerging as the cultural, political, and economic hub of the country. Today, this compact city offers a dynamic blend of Buddhist temples and ancient Khmer culture, French colonial architecture and gastronomy, modern high-rises and luxury apartments, uninhibited chaos, and affordable comfortability. 

IMPORTANT: To re-read this Destination Spotlight (and all others) later, you can access it (for free) over at the Pale Ale Travel blog. 

Phnom Penh at a Glance

Must-See Attractions

• While deeply disturbing, no trip to Phnom Penh is complete without a visit to the Killing Fields, aka the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, where over 1 million political, intellectual, and other innocent prisoners under the Khmer Rouge regime were executed (and estimated 1.5 million-3 million nationwide). Now a peaceful memorial, this area, located just outside of the city, provides a somber reminder and look into Cambodia’s dark history via its 300+ ‘Killing Fields’, mass graves, and human remains. Within the city center, you’ll also find the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a former secondary school converted into the infamous and brutal S-21 prison, which chronicles the Cambodian genocide by way of photographs, textiles, and iron tools, and even torture instruments used. 

• Located in the heart of the city and a stone’s throw away from the waterfront is the Royal Palace, where the King of Cambodia actually lives (and where the monarchy has lived since the late 1800s). Explore the palace grounds and take note of this stunning example of traditional Khmer architecture, with golden spires, a grand throne hall, and intricate murals lining the walls. Don’t forget to swing over to the south side of the grounds to see the Silver Pagoda, named for its floor inlaid with 5,000-plus silver tiles, and its ornate Emerald Buddha and Maitreya Buddha statues. 

• Stretching along the Tonlé Sap River, Phnom Penh’s Sisowath Quay (Riverside) is a lively strip for walking, eating, and shopping. Lined with palm trees, manicured lawns, outdoor cafes, and bars, there aren’t many better spots to soak in the city’s palpable energy. In the evenings, Riverside really takes life, as it’s a popular area for locals to congregate and enjoy street food, live music, and games. It’s also one of the best places to catch a sunset. 

  • If you find yourself down by the water during the day, head to Phnom Penh’s Central Post Office for a look at an enduring relic of French colonial architecture, complete with Roman arches, balconies, and columns. 

• Markets, markets, markets. Phnom Penh is home to some of the liveliest and largest markets in the world, each providing a unique and (undoubtedly) hectic shopping experience. 

  • The most prominent is Phnom Penh’s striking 1930s Art Deco Central Market, home to hundreds of small stalls selling everything from flowers, to electronics, handcrafted souvenirs, coffee, and snacks.  

  • If you’re a bargain hunter, the Russian Market, which derives its name from the staggering number of Russian residents living in Phnom Penh during the 1980s and the Cold War goods stocked there, is going to be your best friend. Discount designer clothes, pirated CDs and movies, and souvenirs can all be found here.  

  • For a more authentically local experience, consider checking out Kandal Market near the Riverside. This is your window into local life, with vendors selling fresh meat and seafood and everyday household goods. Keep in mind that it is less of a tourist attraction and more of a glimpse into how everyday Cambodians live and shop. 

• Khmer culture is Buddhist culture. With over 80% of the country’s residents identifying as Buddhists, there is no shortage of temples spread across the Pearl of Asia - especially in Phnom Penh. These temples offer a refuge from the city’s frenzied energy and an opportunity to explore Cambodia’s deep-rooted Buddhist traditions. 

  • Wat Botum is one of the city’s oldest pagodas and is best visited in the early morning, where you may even be able to chat with the monks and enjoy a local breakfast. The adjacent Wat Botum Park is well-maintained and tranquil and is also home to the Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument, which commemorates their alliance in the years following the fall of the Khmer Rouge. 

  • Another key temple to visit is Wat Phnom Daun Penh, a hilltop sanctuary paying homage to the very city (and its name) itself. Standing over 150 feet tall, this shrine contains a large bronze Buddha that’s surrounded by intricate carvings and other Buddhist statues. 

  • Wat Ounalom is a 15th-century Buddhist temple compound that was once home to over 500 monks, and as one of the original monasteries in Phnom Penh, is considered a major spiritual center to this day. 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: Keep in mind that a lot more of the seedier activities in Phnom Penh are located down by the Riverside. Just be wary when walking with your belongings late at night and always check both ways before crossing the road. While Phnom Penh is a relatively safe city, traffic incidents and petty crime, such as bag snatching, are increasingly more common. 

Cultural Experiences

• For a true look into Cambodia’s deep-rooted Khmer and Buddhist culture, history, and traditions, a stop at the National Museum of Cambodia is a must. Home to a vast collection of artifacts, treasures, ceramics, Buddhist and Hindu statues, a notable statue of King Jayavarman in a meditative pose, and other art from the golden age of Angkor, this museum paints a comprehensive picture of the country’s past (well before the rise of the Khmer Empire). 

• Providing a unique insight into Cambodia’s rich history is the SOSORO Museum (Preah Srey Içanavarman), which provides an interactive journey through 2,000-plus years of Cambodia’s economic and monetary history - and the quirks of its present-day financial system. You’ll find touchscreens, games, and detailed exhibits highlighting the social, political, and economic changes that shaped the country (including the French colonial, Khmer Republic, and Pol Pot eras). 

• The ‘Mighty Mekong River’ is at the heart of Cambodia’s identity and livelihood, with nearly 90% of the country’s territory being included in the ‘Mekong Basin’. For both a relaxing yet culturally enriching experience, consider boarding a Mekong River Cruise. These range from short sunset trips to multi-night journeys to Siem Reap - all offering stunning views of the riverbanks and the city’s skyline. 

  • Consider taking a ferry to Silk Island (Koh Dach), a tranquil escape just 12 kilometers from the city center showcasing rural Cambodian life, specifically its silk-weaving communities. Visitors can enjoy silk-weaving workshops, along with pottery and woodworking classes. It’s also home to traditional Cambodian stilt houses, a beach, and a beautiful yellow pagoda (Koh Dach Pagoda), which makes for the perfect day trip.

  • Evening cruises are best followed up with a stop at the nearby Phnom Penh Night Market, a lively open market with Khmer street food, crafts, souvenirs, and even live music. 

• Zooming around the city in a tuk-tuk is the ultimate way to get a feel for everyday life. These three-wheel motorbikes with passenger cabins are affordable, practical, and ubiquitous, and can be hailed off the street or booked through popular apps like Grab or PassApp. 

Local Cuisine & Beer/Alcohol Scene

• Phnom Penh offers a surprisingly diverse culinary landscape, one that caters to all tastes, preferences, and budgets. You’ll find a healthy blend of local Cambodian flavors with French, Thai, and Vietnamese influences. One of the defining aspects of Cambodian cuisine is the prominence of rice, seafood, and a delicate balance of sweet, salty, sour, and spicy flavors. 

• Many dishes incorporate freshwater fish, prawns, and squid, with fried rice and sticky rice being staple items on almost every menu. Stir fry, curries, and salads are popular as well, with a heavy emphasis on fresh flavors, fruits (papaya and mango), shredded meats, and fish-sauce dressings - ‘prahok’, a pungent, fermented fish paste being the country’s most distinct flavor, condiment, and seasoning ingredient.  

• If you’re looking for an adventurous dining experience and want to channel your inner Andrew Zimmern (from Bizarre Foods), there’s no shortage of unusual snacks in the city. You can find everything from duck embryo eggs to chicken feet and pigs’ ears. Insects are also commonly eaten across the country (a nod to its rich tradition of foraging). 

• I’m right there with you if you want a more familiar dining experience. This is no problem at all in Phnom Penh, as there are numerous top-tier burger (and smashburger) bars, American diners and grills, cafes, and high-end restaurants serving up French, Italian, and other international fare. 

• Phnom Penh’s alcohol scene is equally as dynamic and affordable, with domestic and international beers (primarily from nearby countries) dominating taps and restaurant drink menus. Local beers such as Angkor Beer, Cambodia Beer, and Beer Lao (from neighboring Laos) can be found at nearly every bar and restaurant, clocking in anywhere from just 50 cents to a dollar per bottle. 

• Beyond beer, several unique traditional spirits are worth sampling. One of the most popular is ‘Sombai’, a potent rice wine that is infused with exotic fruits and spices. Flavors range from banana and cinnamon to green tea, coconut, and pineapple. Another must-try is ‘Sra Peang’, a glutinous rice wine that’s stored in earthen pots (and commonly consumed in northeastern Cambodia). And, for the truly intrepid drinkers, there’s ‘Muscle Wine’, a pitch-black concoction made from herbs and deer antlers - commonly tossed back like water by the elder generation. 

• A common theme in Phnom Penh’s dining scene is luxury at an affordable price, so for a touch of refinement, make sure to swing by the iconic Raffles Hotel Le Royal for afternoon tea, which involves a potpourri of pastries, finger foods, and cocktails - the most famous being the champagne-based ‘Femme Fatale’ cocktail, a tribute to Jackie Kennedy’s visit to Cambodia in 1967. 

• Finally, dance the night away at one of the most beloved venues of the city, Oscar’s on the Corner. A roster of rotating live bands keeps things fresh, with jazz, rock and roll, and even country music entertaining both locals and tourists alike every night of the week (until early in the morning). I boogied the night away here at least every other night while in Phnom Penh. 

Phnom Penh Insider 

Best Time to Visit 

• While you’re not going to beat the sweltering Southeast Asian heat and humidity, you can mitigate it slightly by traveling to Phnom Penh during the dry season - from November to March. This also avoids cumbersome heavy rains which occur daily during the wet season and can easily disrupt even the most flexible of itineraries. 

• Cambodia’s dry season is also peak tourist season, meaning popular spots like Angkor Wat (400 km to Phnom Penh’s northwest) may be overcrowded and accommodation prices steep. 

• For those who don’t mind the rain and want to snag sizable discounts on hotels, all while avoiding large crowds, consider traveling to Phnom Penh during the ‘shoulder seasons’ of April to June and September to October. These months are also packed with popular festivals like Khmer New Year and Buddha Day, which can add extra cultural depth to your trip.  

Hidden Gems/Local Secrets

• While tuk-tuks are the more popular method to discover Phnom Penh’s back alleys and hidden charm, hailing a traditional cyclo is the O.G. way to get around. These pedal-powered rickshaws, while slow, offer up a scenic and nostalgic way to navigate the city’s bustling streets, letting you soak in the frenetic atmosphere at a relaxed pace. 

• Beyond the most popular markets like the Russian Market and Central Market, there are two key markets you need to hit:

  • Heng Ly Market - a hidden gem for bicycle enthusiasts wanting a unique glimpse into the local bicycle industry. From construction to trade and scrapping of vintage bicycles, including old Japanese models, it’s a popular destination for serious cyclists AND Atlas Obscura-inspired travelers. 

  • To purchase goods in bulk and gain a look into the everyday local shopping experience, take a walk over near the National Stadium to check out the sprawling Orussey Market. Whether you’re electronic hunting, or in the market for new clothes, housewares, or a traditional Khmer meal (around USD 1), this market has it all. 

• Take a breather from the hustle and bustle (and chaos) of the city by unwinding with an affordable (and meaningful) spa or massage treatment. Consider visiting one of Seeing Hands’ several branches, where visually impaired therapists are trained in several types of massage styles - perfect after a long plane ride. 

• While overshadowed by Thai kickboxing, Cambodia’s ‘Pradal Serey’ (Cambodian kickboxing) is a treasured pastime that can be seen at the National TV Stadium. Fight nights last several hours and are a rip-roaring time to slug a few cold ones while watching this combat sport (which involves stand-up strikes, clinches, and short-range kicks). 

Travel Tips

• If you’re traveling to Phnom Penh from Vietnam (like many do), I recommend flying instead of taking the bus. As someone who hates flying, I thought it would be far less of a hassle and less stressful if I took a 6-hour bus ride over. Let me tell you. That was a horrible mistake. Even going through a reputable bus company, the A.C. barely worked, the driver had me shaking in my metaphorical boots with fear, and it turns out that Phnom Penh traffic is absolutely diabolical. My 9 AM journey that was set to put me into Phnom Penh just before 5 PM, not only had me there by around 9:30 PM but I smelled like a donkey’s you know what, and I’m pretty sure I had heart palpitations induced by our bus barreling towards a non-zero sum over semi-trucks every 7 minutes. 

• Although Cambodia’s official currency is the Cambodian Riel, it is typically only used to give change and for small transactions. The preferred and most used currency? The U.S. dollar. In a city that definitely isn’t a beginner’s city for travel, not having to worry about converting currencies or doing poor mental math (like me) is a breath of fresh air - especially after coming from Vietnam, where denominations can go up to the hundreds of thousands. 

  • To avoid getting scammed when handling money, always announce the amount that you are giving to the vendor/other party. This way, if there is an attempt at a ‘quick change’, you know exactly what is happening and what you handed them. Sometimes it’s easy to question ourselves in these situations. Taking pictures of your large denomination bills and their serial numbers can also be used to “call out” a dishonest party should you find yourself in such a situation. 

• When crossing the road in Phnom Penh - walk with purpose. Southeast Asian streets can be overwhelming to navigate and it can feel daunting to get to the other side. However, if you walk with purpose and signal your movements, you’re in the clear and everyone should/will just drive around you. Also, don’t assume traffic is only coming from the direction it is supposed to be. 

• Phnom Penh is both compact and incredibly easy to navigate thanks to the naming and layout of the streets. For example, odd-numbered streets run from north to south/vice versa, with higher numbers the closer you get to the river. Even numbered streets run west to east and increase as you head south. 

Big Body’s Phnom Penh Highlights

• It may seem small to many but a key memory I look back at during my time in Phnom Penh fondly is the first night I hopped in a tuk-tuk and had the driver take me all around town. The cacophony of motorbike horns, flashing lights, poorly wired music system, constricting heat and humidity, and slight danger of things (traffic-wise), all contributed to a feeling I hadn’t experienced in a long time, spontaneity-induced happiness. The previous 3 years of my life in Taiwan had been extremely predictable, so a trip that involved zero plan whatsoever had this Big Body feeling like an entirely new human. 

• Lazy day-time Riverside cafe hangs with a Polish-Canadian buddy of mine who also made the trip over, while chugging away with the first few posts of the travel blog that started it all (palealetravel.com) had me finally feeling like I was creating for myself. Much to my surprise, entering into a comfortable, convenient, and productive routine in Phnom Penh was a breeze - if you’ve followed this blog/newsletter for any time, you know just how important that is for me. 

Phnom Penh: Rugged at Points But Well Worth the Squeeze

For me, Cambodia is a captivating amalgamation of both the past and present. Its resilience, growth, and warmth, in theory, shouldn’t be as tremendous as it is. 

This is a country that experienced the very worst humanity has to offer, and while still facing everyday reminders of the past, is carving out a place as a must-visit destination in Southeast Asia. 

If you have any questions about traveling to Phnom Penh (or navigating the buses from Vietnam), please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email ([email protected]).

Travel well everyone,

Big Body