#15. This 🇭🇷Croatian City on the Dalmatian Coast🏖️is Called 'The Most Beautiful City in the World'🏛️

Located on the narrow belt of the stunning Dalmatian Coast (and eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea), one of Croatia’s four historical regions, Split is the second largest city in the country and one of its oldest, tracing its history back over 1,700 years. 

Though the city’s establishment is commonly associated with the Christianophobic Roman emperor Diocletian, who built his monumental retirement palace in the 4th century, Split actually saw its roots sprout in the 3rd (or 2nd) century BCE, when it was founded as the Greek colony of Aspálathos. 

Subsequent years saw the city become a prime battleground in various power struggles between the Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, Habsburg, French, and Austrian empires, with the red-white-blue tricolor ultimately seceding from the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia after the bloody and highly destructive Croatian War of Independence in the early 1990s. 

Today, the city’s well-preserved Roman walls, squares, temples, and fortifications, positioning on Croatia’s stunning coastline as a gateway to the Adriatic Sea and nearly 2,000 surrounding islands, and estimated 2,800 hours of sunshine each year, have earned it the nicknames of ‘The Most Beautiful City in the World’ and ‘The Mediterranean Flower’. 

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The Whole Rundown on Split

Must-See Attractions

• Split is an extremely compact city, with a large percentage of sites, attractions, and experiences condensed into its Old Town (Diocletian’s Palace) and along the Riva (promenade), so you’ll be able to tackle most places you want to see by foot. 

• Step into the UNESCO World Heritage Site that forms the beating heart of the city, Diocletian’s Palace. Explore one of the world’s best-preserved Roman palaces, weaving your way through its maze of ancient walls, underground halls, columns, gates, and tunnels. Stop in the Peristyle, the palace’s central square, to admire not only the preserved ruin structures but accompanying Gothic and Renaissance buildings as well.

• Located inside Diocletian’s Palace is the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (Sveti Dujam) and its Bell Tower. Originally the imperial mausoleum for Diocletian, this octagonal former Roman temple turned cathedral (solely dedicated to the Virgin Mary) is the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world, and boasts an extraordinary blend of both Romanesque and Christian architecture. Make sure to head to the top of the Bell Tower for panoramic views of the city, its surrounding islands, and Marjan Hill. 

• Swing over to the western quadrant of Diocletian’s Palace to what's widely considered one of Europe’s most beautiful monuments, the Temple of Jupiter - a former place of worship dedicated to the Roman god of the sky and thunder (Jupiter). Now a baptistery, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, it’s hard to miss it thanks to the headless sphinx out front (one of 12 brought over by Diocletian from Egypt). 

• To catch some rays and watch as the cruises dock in the port, head to the Split Promenade (Riva). This lively waterfront promenade is lined with cafes, restaurants, and food stalls, and is the perfect spot to post up with a drink or snack while you soak in the coastal views. 

• It wouldn’t be a ‘Split Summer’ without a dip in the water. Opt for one of Split’s free beaches like the Trstenik Beach, which is maintained by the Radisson Blue Resort, or the authentically Croatian beach hangout of Bačvice, where you’ll find a plethora of restaurants and cafes, and locals splashing in the water while engaging in a favorite summer pastime, Picigin - a team game involving players who must keep a small ball from falling into the water. 

• For a private cabana or beach party vibe, consider heading to one of the countless beach clubs which are scattered along the 9 miles of swimmable shoreline, the most popular being Jadran Beach Bar, Mistral Beach Bar & Restaurant (at the Radisson Blu), and Taboo Beach Club. 

Cultural Experiences

• I know it’s a bit redundant having a ‘Cultural Experiences’ section considering Split and its Old Town are a living, breathing open-air museum, but there are cultural and historical insights into the city that can be gleaned in numerous museums and pockets. 

  • Archaeological Museum of Split

    • Dive into a collection of over 150,000 artifacts spanning prehistoric times to the Middle Ages at Croatia’s oldest museum (established in the early 19th century). You’ll also find a collection of stone inscriptions from the ancient city (and capital of the Roman Province of Dalmatia) Salona, along with Roman glass, Greek ceramics, and even an underwater collection of finds from Dalmatian excavations. 

  • Croatian Maritime Museum

    • Split is a port city after all, and boasts the largest passenger port in the country (and 3rd largest in the Mediterranean). Maritime history is Split history. This lesser-known gem of a museum allows patrons to metaphorically dive into Split’s nautical history, with exhibits ranging from WWII torpedoes to countless ship models (including a ‘half ship’ built into an embankment outside), naval uniforms, and unusual pieces/articles of Croatian seafarers. 

  • Ethnographic Museum

    • Dalmatia’s history of colonization, annexation, and ravaging has led to a fervent preservation and treasuring of local traditions. Split’s Ethnographic Museum showcases traditional (national) costumes and dress, musical instruments, toys, and even weapons that were found across the eastern shore of the Adriatic (primarily from the 20th century onwards). The museum’s rooftop terrace, which can be accessed via a reconstructed Roman staircase, offers some of the best views of the Old Town (and is completely worth booking a ticket for in itself). 

  • Museum City of Split

    • Although temporarily closed, the Museum of the City of Split offers a deep dive into the city’s history and its evolution. It’s also a natural (and essential) stop when exploring Diocletian’s Palace. This museum lays the framework of everything you need to know about Split’s humble beginnings as a small commune to a Venetian-ruled city (now Croatia’s second largest). It’s also home to an art collection of Split’s most revered and important painter, Emanuel Vidović, whose Post-Impressionist and art nouveau-style sheds further light on Slavic history and lore. 

• Wander through one of Split’s oldest neighborhoods, Varoš, which often plays second fiddle to the Diocletian’s Palace and surrounding sites. Known for its narrow, cobbled streets, hidden courtyards, and traditional Dalmatian stone houses with eclectic, colorful shutters, Varoš is the spot to head if you want a look into how the city’s 160,000-plus population (especially real Split natives - known as the ‘Fetivi’) live.

Local Cuisine & Beer/Alcohol Scene

• Split’s cuisine reflects a heavy influence and mixture of both Italian and Croatian elements, with seafood dominating menus along the Adriatic. Black calamari risotto (the type that turns your tongue black), mackerel, sardines, anchovies, oysters (from Mali Ston), and fresh octopus salad are all a must when in Dalmatia - best enjoyed at a beachfront restaurant or on the Riva. 

• Dalmatia’s Mediterranean climate and traditional preparation techniques surprisingly make Split a ‘ham (pršut) hotspot’. This dry-cured, slightly smoky, salty delicacy is customarily served with homemade bread, cheese, and fruit (often melon). 

• The popular Balkan street food and staple, Ćevapi, wasn’t just a snack for me during my three months in Split - it was an obsession. These minced rolls of beef, pork, or lamb (or all three) are stuffed into a flatbread and topped with raw onions, kajmak (what I’d describe as a ‘cheese butter’), and ajvar (red bell pepper sauce). It sizzles, it bursts with flavor, and it melts in your mouth thanks to the cheese butter. 

• And, if you need an afternoon pick-me-up but don’t want to load up on a cheese butter meat frisbee, the flaky, light phyllo pastry stuffed with meat or vegetables known as ‘burek’ will always serve you well. For those with a sweet tooth, small bakeries and stalls lining the Old Town will have ‘krafne’ for days, Croatian donuts filled with vanilla cream, jam, and custard. The latter is undoubtedly why I write under the moniker ‘Big Body’. 

• Wash it all down with the local beer of choice, Karlovačko (a Heineken subsidiary), a refreshing yet bitter lager. It’s found in nearly every shop and you’ll inevitably see the Old Dawgz down on the Promenade throwing these back like water. 

• For wine enthusiasts, Plavac Mali is a rich, flavorful red wine that’s both high in tannins and alcohol, and one of the most popular in Dalmatia. For something lighter and to complement your seafood, Graševina is a revered white wine with a fruity, floral profile. Prošek, unrelated to Prosecco, is a beloved dessert wine that sports a creamy, jammy, and nutty body, and was my go-to to finish off most sit-down meals!

• Finally, if you aren’t tossing back shots of Slivovitz or Rakija (plum and fruit brandy), some might say you didn’t actually visit Croatia! Both go down extremely hot in the throat and some say it tastes like a sweet paint thinner. I can confirm. 

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Split Insider 

Best Time to Visit 

• Croatia is best experienced during its summer months. You’re on the Adriatic Sea, have access to more outlying islands than you can shake a stick at, and have an array of summer festivals (including music festivals like Ultra Europe) to enjoy. 

• However, if you want to experience the beauty of the Adriatic Coast and avoid crowds, consider visiting in April to May, and/or September to August. Prices are exponentially lower as well. 

• I can emphatically state that visiting Split in the wintertime is not recommended. I know that it says online that Split winters are ‘mild’ and not particularly harsh. But as someone who has experienced it for themselves (and someone who comes from a cold climate), I’d steer clear of the city from the end of November (its rainiest month) until early to mid-February. 

• Located right on the water, it gets cold and windy. That’s also a driving reason behind why Split’s summers are so enjoyable - they rarely descend into intolerable heat and humidity. In winter, think bone-chilling gusts of wind that rip through whatever jacket you have on, sporadic downpours, and occasional snow (it’s rare but I experienced it!). However, the sky is often still blue, so the city really does live up to its reputation as the ‘Mediterranean Flower’ and one that gets ample amounts of sunlight. 

• Further, the city is a shell of what it is in the summer when there are cruises, yachters, and partygoers flocking in by the thousands for beach time shenanigans, extravagant parties, and relaxation. 

Hidden Gems/Local Secrets

• For panoramic views of Split’s Roman charm, and what I consider to be the best views of the city, hike all 600 feet up Marjan Hill to Telegrin Peak and its observation deck, or snag a quick coffee and snack at Teraca Vidilica. 

• Split has a third nickname that isn’t as well-known, ‘The Sportiest City in the World’. This is due to the substantial number of high-profile and notable athletes who were born in Split, along with the countless sports that can be found running at all times of the year. From handball to rowing, tennis, association football, swimming, and even baseball, there’s always a reason to throw on your red, white, and blue sports garb in Split. 

• Most notably, if you explore Split long enough, you’ll see a common theme amongst the graffiti that lines the city - the number ‘1950’. This is in reference to the city’s football team ‘Hajduk’, who play in the Prva HNL, Croatia’s top league - which typically runs from July to May. Keep an eye out for matches while visiting to get an authentic look into Croatian sports culture. Just avoid selecting the cheapest seats as you’ll find yourself shoulder-to-shoulder with Hajduk’s top fans (who are known for being especially rabid).

• If visiting Split in summer, make sure to take the ferry out to a nearby island like Brač or Hvar, both of which have stunning, crystal-clear turquoise beaches. Ferries to both take around roughly one hour. Hvar is considered one of the nightlife capitals of the Balkans (and Europe), is popular for its sprawling bright purple lavender fields, and is home to the oldest city in all of Croatia (Stari Grad), while Brač is known for its white limestone architecture, pine and fig trees (and vineyards), and Kopačina cave (a Stone Age era cave). 

  • Consider renting a bike in Split or on one of the islands to cover more ground while exploring! 

• Just to the north of Split, you’ll find Putalj Vineyard, which makes for the perfect day trip for grape and vino lovers looking for an intimate wine-tasting experience (small batch Croatian wines) with breathtaking views. 

Travel Tips

• Don’t forget to pick up the SplitCard before heading down to Dalmatia. This is a completely free card - if you’re staying in Split for more than 2 days from November to March and more than 5 days from April to October - and grants free admission to select museums and discounts at some of the city’s best shops and restaurants. Simply pick it up at one of the primary Tourist Information Centers in Split. 

• If you do end up traveling to Split in the winter, be careful taking the trains. Balkan trains are notorious for cancellations and being late in the winter. A 6.5-hour train ride from Zagreb to Split ended up taking my friend and me nearly 10 hours due to delays. FlixBus (the popular European intercity bus company), on the other hand, was a godsend for navigating the Balkans (and most of Europe). I rarely encountered any issues and found it to be the quickest, most efficient way to travel across Croatia and surrounding countries (especially for trips between Zagreb and Split and even to Mostar, Bosnia).

• Avoid the Game of Thrones Museum at all costs (unless you’re really a die-hard Game of Thrones fan - and even then…). It has only 3.5 rooms and is filled with poorly designed costumes and figurines of characters from the show. It also clocks in at roughly 15 euros. There aren’t many spots that I actively recommend against going but in all my years of travel, this is the definition of a ‘tourist trap’ if I ever did see one. I made the mistake of visiting and walked out wondering why I paid so much to stand next to paper mache mannequins of GoT characters that I am 99% sure I could do a better job of making. 

• Just 3.5 hours from Split by bus, Mostar is a must-visit in the Balkans. If you read my past Destination Spotlight on Mostar, then you already know what a gem this Ottoman city of contrasts is. It’s easily doable within a single day. However, I recommend making a weekend or several-day trip of it, just so that you can experience everything that Mostar and its surroundings (Kravice Waterfalls, historic villages, and a Dervish monastery) have to offer. 

• If you’re looking to pair your Split vacation with an Italian adventure as well, it’s doable. Both long-distance and short-distance ferries operate out of Split and run several times per week to Ancona and Pescara (in Italy). 

• If you’re wondering if you should add an extra day to your Split or Dubrovnik itinerary, my recommendation is Split. Dubrovnik has really leaned into the Game of Thrones angle and has become such an overcrowded hotspot that you run out of things to do and can get overwhelmed quickly. Split, on the other hand, has so many day excursions (to surrounding islands), sporting events, and pockets to explore that you definitely need that extra day.

Big Body’s Split Highlights

• While things did start off somewhat shaky during my first week in Split, as there was a triple homicide that occurred right outside my door, everything else was smooth sailing once the sirens and yellow police tape cleared out. One of my best buddies who I grew up with, the same one I mentioned who was held somewhat captive by the woman he was seeing in Poznań, Poland, came to visit. We spent roughly 10 days exploring the city, hiking Marjan Hill (and the loop), and tossing back Karlovačko’s like it was our job. Also, there may or may not be a random interview with me floating around on a Croatian news site somewhere about the triple homicide.

• As I lived a relatively quiet and predictable life while in Split, a key memory for me is my (almost) nightly trip to Buffet Fife, a popular restaurant and buffet right down by the water, serving up homestyle Croatian dishes. I’d chat with the bartender/server (Teo) and slug a few drinks and shots of Slivovitz with him before heading home with my pašticada. We ultimately became buddies and have kept in touch since. If you’re looking for an authentic, affordable restaurant right in the heart of Split (and with gorgeous views of both the Split Promenade and water), then this is your spot. 

Do the Opposite of What Chris Voss Said & ‘Split the Difference’

Split was an incredibly formative time in my life. My time there came at the tail end of my first stint living in Europe and it was one that required a lot of self-reflection and planning for the next chapter - that means that there was a lot of stress.

However, waking up every single day to a clear blue sky, waterfront view, and ancient Roman structures right outside my door, helped absorb a lot of this volatility. It was a place that delivered balance and solace when I needed it the most and I’m incredibly thankful for my time there.

If you have any questions about traveling or moving to Split, Croatia, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me! I’d also love to hear your thoughts on this week’s destination spotlight and if there are any other destinations you’d like to see featured.

Travel well everyone,

Big Body