#19. This 🇭🇷 City Knows Christmas Markets🎄 & Experiences 400 Earthquakes⚠️ Per Year

Positioned on the banks of the longest tributary of the Danube, the Sava River, framed by the southern slopes of Medvednica Mountain, and just 140 kilometers from the Slovenian border, Zagreb is Croatia’s largest city and capital - and the true beating heart of where Central Europe, Southeast Europe, and the Mediterranean converge. 

Sporting an official population of roughly 800,000 residents, with a greater metropolitan area well exceeding 1.2 million, Zagreb was first established as the capital in 1557. However, the first settlements in and around the city trace back to the Roman times (1st to 4th century AD), where it served as a tribal center (“municipium”) for residents without full Roman citizenship and a gateway between modern-day Ptuj (in Slovenia) and Sisak (in Croatia). 

With great uncertainty surrounding the etymology of the name ‘Zagreb’, some suspect it to have derived from Proto-Slavic words meaning “hill” or “riverbank.” Others believe it’s in reference to the ‘embankments’ and ‘ramparts’ of the 1st millennium fortifications of Grič - now Zagreb’s medieval ‘Upper Town’. 14-century folklore speculates it came from the verb ‘za-grab’, meaning ‘to scoop’, a reference to the Bishop of Zagreb (Ivan Tkalčić,) who miraculously drew water by digging a well during a prolonged drought. 

Subsequent centuries saw Zagreb increasingly grow in prominence in Central Europe, earning the coveted title of ‘free royal city’ under the Kingdom of Hungary. As a “free royal city,” aka one of the most important in the Kingdom, Zagreb was granted self-governance rights over internal affairs, “free” from the control of Hungarian nobility. Unfortunately, the 17th and 18th centuries proved challenging for Zagreb after a series of devastating fires wiped out numerous communities and sporadic outbreaks of the bubonic plague killed over 50,000 residents across the region.

But things temporarily picked up, thanks to the 19th-century Croatian National Revival, a pan-South-Slavic political campaign by young intellectuals that prioritized linguistic and ethnic unity amongst Austria-Hungary, ultimately laying the foundation for cardinal cultural and historic institutions that define the country today. By the early 20th century, Zagreb had blossomed into a dynamic cultural and transportation hub, undergoing its largest demographic boom (a 70% population increase!). 

But once again, prosperity and growth were put on hold as Zagreb took center stage as the capital of the Nazi-backed Independent State of Croatia, and thousands of citizens were executed. Post-World War II, Croatia’s role in the formation of the former Yugoslavia saw Zagreb’s renaissance as an economic powerhouse. In the aftermath of the dissolution of Yugoslavia and Croatian independence in 1991, Zagreb resumed its role as the capital, quickly developing into a hub for transport, government, industry, and science. 

Today, with the highest concentration of museums per capita in the world (earning it the nickname ‘The City of Museums’), a high quality of living, and an economy that balances both industrial tradition and scientific innovation, Zagreb draws close to one million visitors annually - making it the perfect destination for visitors seeking out a vibrant European city that blends historical depth with contemporary cultural life. 

IMPORTANT: To re-read this Destination Spotlight (and all others) later, you can access it (for free) over at the Pale Ale Travel blog. 

The A Through Z’s of Zagreb

Must-See Attractions

Zagreb’s compact layout, scenic and affordable public transportation (especially the trams!), and walkable streets make it easy to explore the city’s historic core - which is separated into two key areas:

• Upper Town (Gornji Grad), and

• Lower Town (Donji Grad). 

Both are bustling cultural and economic hubs in their own right, packed with Zagreb’s most iconic sites, lively open-air markets, tranquil and lush parks, and striking medieval architecture. 

Upper Town: where Zagreb’s medieval charm shines through an eclectic mix of its former hilltop settlements, cobblestone streets, vibrant churches and cathedrals, and the popular pedestrian café street (Tkalčićeva).

• Begin your journey through Zagreb by first exploring Ban Josip Jelačić Square, the city’s central hub between both the Upper and Lower Town. This lively square (and pedestrian zone), named after the revered 19th-century Croatian lieutenant boasts an array of buildings sporting various architectural styles (from classicism to secession and modernism), a statue of the general himself on horseback, and countless cafes and restaurants. It’s not just a popular meeting place for locals but a highly celebrated venue for large social gatherings, concerts, and cultural events (like the famous Zagreb Christmas Market).

• Make your way north (up the hill) to Zagreb’s medieval quarter by foot or via its 66-meter-long Funicular Railway (a cable railway system), entering through the Stone Gate at the eastern entrance. This 13th-century gate (reconstructed in the 18th century), is Zagreb’s most important shrine, bar none, and the only remaining entrance of its medieval fortifications. The Stone Gate is considered a holy place amongst Zagreb Catholics because of its shrine to the Virgin Mary, whose image miraculously survived a calamitous fire in the 17th century and is a popular spot to stop, light a candle, pray for love and happiness in front of the gilded icon of Mary holding baby Jesus. 

• Having entered the Upper Town via the Stone Gate, head 3 minutes west to St. Mark’s Square. Home to the stunning 13th-century St. Mark’s Church, recognizable by its vibrant red, white, and blue-tiled roof showcasing the Croatian and Zagreb coat of arms, St. Mark’s Square is the center of the city’s medieval charm. St. Mark’s Church also happens to be surrounded by key government buildings, like the Croatian Parliament and Constitutional Court, and is one of the most photographed buildings in all of Croatia. 

  • St. Mark’s church is closed for most of the year. However, should you make the trip in winter, you may be able to enter for mass.

• Just a 10-minute walk to the east is the towering Cathedral of Zagreb - dedicated to the Assumption of Mary and saints Stephen and Ladislaus. While temporarily closed due to damage from the 2020 earthquake, its Gothic spires are hard to miss and still worth checking out in person! It also happens to be one of the tallest sacral buildings in the world (and second tallest in all of Croatia), standing just under 110 meters tall and has played a prominent role in Zagreb’s skyline since the 13th century. 

• For a scenic break and relaxing stroll, Park Ribnjak is an urban oasis and 19th-century English-style garden. It’s also home to the Zagreb Art Park, a lounge and picnic area adorned with a collection of graffiti and murals that sees creative events (ex. Film screenings and painting sessions) hosted throughout the year, and Lotrščak Tower, a fortified relic of the Upper Town which fires a cannon every single day at noon - a tradition since 1877. 

  • Climb up Lotrščak Tower’s winding staircase for sweeping views of the city and surrounding hills!

Lower Town: the modern city center of Zagreb where Austro-Hungarian architecture and Art Nouveau designs are complemented by a sprawling system of parks, squares, and gardens. 

• The defining characteristic of Zagreb’s Lower Town is Lenuci’s Horseshoe, a U-shaped system of seven connected parks, gardens, and squares that is home to a cache of statues, museums, galleries, and other attractions.

  • Begin your trek around Zagreb’s Lower Town at arguably one of Zagreb’s most romantic (and beautiful) spots - Zrinjevac Park. Stroll along tree-lined paths, take a breather at its music pavilion (and centerpiece), and admire the park’s classical fountain. Nighttime is when the park really shines with its lit-up walkways and ornamental tree decorations! 

  • Make your way south from Zrinjevac to Strossmayer Square, a favorite gathering spot for locals named after Josip Juraj Strossmayer, a politician, Croatian prelate in the Catholic Church, and founder of the Yugoslav Academy of Sciences and Arts. Picture open green spaces, shaded paths, and a weathered monument to Strossmayer himself - a perfect spot for people-watching, relaxing, and enjoying a peaceful amble in Zagreb’s urban greenery. 

  • Carve down Strossmayer Square to a portion of the ‘Horseshoe’ dedicated to Croatia’s first king - King Tomislav. King Tomislav’s Square features a mighty statue of the king on horseback, expansive lawns, colorful flower displays, a central fountain, and a backdrop of some of Zagreb’s most beautiful buildings (ex. the Art Pavilion) 

  • At the bend of the Horseshoe is Zagreb’s Botanical Garden, a verdant paradise for plant enthusiasts and casual visitors. Spanning 12 acres, this meticulously curated garden (a part of Zagreb’s faculty of science) is home to over 10,000 plant species, including nearly 1,800 exotic varieties. Wander through its diverse segments featuring arboretums, rock gardens, and tranquil ponds filled with aquatic plants. 

  • Complete your trip around Lenuci’s Horseshoe at my personal favorite (and one of the biggest squares in Zagreb), the Republic of Croatia Square (Trg Republike Hrvatske). This sprawling lush square is home to the gorgeous Croatian National Theater, a bright yellow Neo-Baroque masterpiece architectural jewel (with a prominent dome) by famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. You’ll also find the statues of St. George Killing the Dragon, the Well of Life, and a small monument to the famed writer, politician, and founder of firefighting in Croatia, Đuro Deželić.

Cultural Experiences

• Museums, Museums, Museums! Dubbed the ‘City of Museums’, Zagreb is a powerhouse in the world of cultural and historical exhibits. And with over 30 institutions, galleries, and museums, holding over 3.6 million artifacts, there’s something for everyone in Croatia’s capital city. Several personal highlights include:

  • Museum of the City of Zagreb: This early-20th century museum within a restored complex of the former Convent of the Poor Clares covers everything Zagreb - 80,000-plus statues, documents, photographs, and other objects provide a comprehensive overview of the city’s historical beginnings as a Roman settlement through the years via its political, artistic, economic evolutions. 

  • Archaeological Museum: Boasting over 450,000 artifacts, this museum houses Croatia’s ancient treasures, including relics from prehistoric times, an Egyptian collection, and the famous Zagreb Mummy (wrapped in bandages inscribed with the world’s oldest Etruscan text). 

  • Croatian Natural History Museum: A hub for natural history buffs with over 2 million artifacts, this museum’s claim to fame(s?) is its globally renowned collection of Neanderthal remains, as well as prehistoric weapons and tools, zoological collection of over 1 million animal specimens, and a public scientific library with texts dating back to the 17th-century 

• Typically beginning at the end of November and lasting through to the first week of January, Zagreb’s Advent Festival and Christmas Market is a regular name atop the rankings for the best Christmas markets and celebrations in Europe. Magical light displays, open-air concerts, seasonal decorations adorning all corners of the city, and more cultural events and festivities than you can shake a stick at. Toss back several cups of soul-warming mulled wine (or more like this guy) and lace up a pair of skates for several laps around the city’s ice rink to celebrate!

• Located in my favorite section of Lenuci’s Horseshoe, the Croatian National Theater is a must for anyone seeking out world-class drama, opera, and ballet performances at an affordable price. With a repertoire that includes both Croatian masterpieces and international favorites (from classical to contemporary), the National Theater has drawn the likes of not only Croatia’s top talents but global artists alike.

• Until spending time in Europe, I had absolutely zero idea just how passionate everyone is about handball - the Croatians especially. And, there’s a good reason behind it. They’ve taken home the Olympic gold twice (1996, 2004). Consider checking out this beloved sport at Arena Zagreb or Dom Sportova to get a glimpse into this global sport (unbeknownst to many Americans) of 30 million strong! If football (aka soccer) is more your style, GNK Dinamo Zagreb, Croatia’s most decorated football team in the country’s top league plays out of Maksimir Stadium from July to May of each year. 

Local Cuisine & Beer/Alcohol Scene

• Celebrated as a gastronomic epicenter of both Croatia and Central Europe, Zagreb is known for its high-quality, eclectic, and affordable dining options that extend far beyond traditional Croatian flare. 

• Among must-try dishes are Sarma (my personal favorite anywhere in Central and Eastern Europe), tender sauerkraut rolls stuffed with minced pork and rice, Zagrebački odreza, a local take on the ever so comforting cordon bleu, and Čobanac, a Slavonian shepherd’s stew consisting of several types of meat (including game meat) and loads of paprika (for its signature bold color). 

• For a taste of Croatia’s countryside, you can’t go wrong with turkey, duck, or goose served with mlinci, a thin dried flatbread to absorb all the savory juices of the meat! 

• While I’m more of a ‘meat tooth’ than a ‘sweet tooth’, I still couldn’t help but finish off most meals with a signature Croatian Štrukli, aka a sweet cottage cheese filled strudel (savory options available as well), an Orehnjača, a traditional walnut roll that pairs perfectly with coffee or tea, or a Kremšnita, a vanilla or custard cream cake dessert with a sprinkling of powdered sugar for good measure. 

• Zagreb’s Dolac Market is the perfect stop for anyone wanting a glimpse into Croatia’s vibrant market scene and the hustle and bustle of everyday life for local vendors and artisans. Pick up everything from fresh fruits (including Zadar cherries) and vegetables to cottage cheese and cream and even olive oil! 

• I’d be remiss not to mention my all-time favorite Croatian food (and Balkan staple), the Ćevapi - grilled minced meat sausages in a fluffy flatbread served with chopped raw onions, a cheese butter (kajmak), sweet bell pepper condiment (ajvar). 

  • You can find the best Ćevapi I’ve ever eaten right next to Dolac Market at Plac Kitchen & Grill, which is also home to a wide array of local Croatian craft beers (my favorite being the Zlatni Medvjed lager from Pivovara Medvedgrad). 

• As mentioned in my Split, Croatia Destination Spotlight, you can find Karlovačko lagers in every pocket of the country - especially in Zagreb where you are less than 60 km from its birthplace (Karlovac). For those who want a little more bite, Rakija, a potent fruit brandy (40% ABV) is consumed in small glasses and can be found in almost every single Croatian household. 

• As a pick me up after a night of slugging Rakija with the best of them, swing over to the vibrant cafe mecca Tkalčićeva Street for strong coffee, pastries, and even more rakija (at Rakhia Bar - with over 30 different types!). 

Zagreb Insider 

Best Time to Visit 

• In my opinion, there is no ‘best time’ to visit Zagreb as it boasts four distinct seasons, each of which offers its own unique charm, activities, and events. However, it’s worth noting that rain is a regular occurrence, no matter the season - as Zagreb is one of the top 10 wettest capitals in Europe based on precipitation. 

• Both spring and fall enjoy pleasant temperatures and are characterized by sunny days and cooler nights. Spring sees the city come alive with the blooming of vibrant flowers in its parks, gardens, and squares, along with a handful of cultural and artistic events like the Festival of Lights (a showcase of local and foreign artists and spectacular light installations across the city), while fall is where things ramp up socially due to nearby vineyards harvesting grapes (a great time for wine tasting!), an array of festivals (like the late-October Jazz Festival), and season openers for popular clubs and music venues. 

• Winters in Zagreb can be extremely harsh, with overcast skies and bone-chilling temperatures (experienced firsthand). However, there’s something cozy and warm thanks to the city’s transformation into a winter wonderland for the Advent Festival and Christmas Market. This award-winning Christmas market lights up the city with festive decorations, open-air performances and entertainment, and an overall ethereal atmosphere - perfect for those who can’t get enough of the movie Elf.

• Finally, Zagreb summers are warm and can be extremely humid, with temperatures reaching up to 90°F or hotter - meaning, you definitely need to pair your trip to Zagreb with one down to Split or Dubrovnik for some beach time TLC and daiquiris. The pièce de résistance of summer is the INmusic Festival in the middle of Lake Jarun at the end of June, one of Croatia’s largest open-air music festivals that attracts international headlining artists (Moby, The Black Keys, N.E.R.D., Lily Allen, etc…) and over 100,000 attendees. 

Hidden Gems/Local Secrets

• As the ‘City of Museums’, it’s only fitting that Zagreb is also home to some must-visit quirky museums as well as more traditional galleries. 

  • One of Zagreb’s most unusual and heartfelt spots (and a highlight of my time in Zagreb) is the Museum of Broken Relationships. What originally began as a traveling exhibit of items left over from failed relationships, evolved into a full-fledged museum of 3,500 objects (all with a personal story about the relationship) donated by people from all over the world. The museum is split into both material and virtual exhibitions and even allows visitors to upload their personal stories and images for others to see! 

  • As someone who has thrown back enough Karlovačkos in a single night that a reasonable person would consume in a lifetime, the Museum of Hangovers was right up my alley. This small museum of 40 stories and objects paints a humorous (and chaotic) picture of a night out on the town. It’s interactive as well and includes drinking games and storytelling exhibits for a truly immersive experience. 

  • Although temporarily closed, the Museum of Dražen Petrović is a key stop for any basketball fan (especially those who enjoyed the 80’s glory days). Dedicated to one of Croatia’s most beloved athletes who tragically passed away in 1993, Dražen Petrović, the museum showcases his impressive international career which included stints in Croatia, Spain, and even the NBA. 

• Beyond Zagreb’s city limits lie numerous picturesque villages on the slopes of Medvednica Mountain, such as Šestine, Gračani, and Remete. Take a day trip out to one of these last bastions of traditional Croatian culture, where you’ll find locals donning folk costumes and whipping up traditional gingerbread products. 

  • The medieval fortified town of Medvedgrad is especially popular thanks to its recently restored medieval fortress (which dates back to the 13th century). Nestled in the football of Medvednica Mountain, this fortified town provides breathtaking views of Zagreb and the surrounding area. It’s also home to a shrine with an eternal flame dedicated to Croatia’s fallen heroes. On the far-western hill of Medvednica, you’ll find the remnants of Susedgrad Castle. 

  • Another popular day trip from Zagreb is Jarun Lake to the slight west of the city (Novi Zagreb - New Zagreb). A popular recreational area among locals, Jarun Lake is ideal for outdoor enthusiasts, picnickers, runners, swimmers, and even windsurfers! It’s also a great spot for drinkers, as the weekends see its lakeside bars come alive and into a bustling social hub!

• For unbeatable views of Zagreb, consider heading north to the 169-meter tall Zagreb TV Tower, located on the summit of the 1035-meter peak Sljeme (of Medvenica). Enjoy 360-degree views of the surrounding forests, ski slopes and lodges, and even the Slovenian Alps (on a clear day) from the tower’s observation deck and open-air terrace (complete with a coffee bar). In warmer months, keep an eye out for attractions like falconry displays, which can add a unique touch to your Croatian experience! 

• When making your way across Zagreb, keep an eye out for a fascinating collective of art installations scattered across the city - a city-wide model of the Solar System (Nine Views). Created by local artists Davor Preis and Ivan Kožarić, these stainless steel sculptures represent the nine planets and are strategically placed around the city in exact proportion to their real distances from the sun (to scale, of course). Each planet includes a metal plaque with its name, diameter, and average distance from the sun. This ‘hunt’ is a great way to explore Zagreb’s streets and parks!

Travel Tips

• When traveling around the Balkans, I strongly recommend using FlixBus for intercity travel rather than Croatian and/or Balkan trains. FlixBus is affordable, predictable, and efficient. I can’t say the same about Croatian trains and spent one fateful trip from Zagreb down to Split stuck on a train for nearly twice as long as anticipated. Further, while Zagreb is easily walkable, its trams are a scenic way to take in the city without breaking a sweat - and they run 24 hours per day. 

  • Just keep in mind when using public transportation in Croatia (and most of Europe) that you have to validate your ticket upon entry. This can be done by simply inserting it into the machine on-board. 

• While Croatia does use Uber, it’s the ride-hailing app Bolt that is the most widely used. Bolt prices are considerably lower than Uber as well due to smaller driver commissions. It also has great sign-up deals and discounts which I recommend taking advantage of! 

• Zagreb is situated on the Žumberak-Medvednica fault zone and experiences, on average, 400 earthquakes annually. Don’t let this deter you as most are too minor to notice. However, note that the city was significantly affected by a 5.5 magnitude earthquake in 2020, which caused considerable damage to buildings. As of 2024, numerous museums, galleries, and attractions are still closed (and under renovation), so I always recommend checking the status of whatever site/museum you want to visit before showing up! 

• For those planning on testing if Zagreb really is the ‘City of Museums’, consider picking up the Zagreb Card at any of the Tourist Information Centers in the city. The reception desk at your hotel may also have it as well! You’ll enjoy unlimited travel on public transport and discounts at nearly every single museum in the city, along with various restaurants and shops. And it only costs 20 euros for 24 hours or 26 euros for 72 hours. 

• Finally, Zagreb has fourteen major shopping centers and is home to a wide range of small shops, storehouses, and boutiques as well. Don’t forget to pick up a tie or cravat (neckband), the latter being named after Croats who wore these scarves around their neck in the 17th century Thirty Years’ War. The ballpoint pen was also developed by a local inventor as well, so if you’re a pen collector, this is your place!

Now You Know Your ABZ’s

Zagreb was the first destination that taught me just how cruel yet comforting European winters can be. There was something strangely similar in the cadence of life and pleasures that I know and love about my home state of New Hampshire. 

It also didn’t hurt to have one of my best friends and someone I could have submitted several items to the Museum of Broken Relationships come to visit, along with a never-ending cup of mulled wine in my hand to ease some of the physical pain of the cold and future heartache. 

If you want cozy winter nights with Holly Jolly spirit, affordable (and underrated) wines in one hand, and a loved one by your side, this is your place. If you want historic and peculiar museums to get your knowledge fix at (and laugh along the way). You got it. If you want to channel your inner X Games athlete and windsurf on a gorgeous, turquoise lake or hike amongst picturesque rolling hills and mounts, look no further. 

There isn’t much Zagreb doesn’t have, which is why I wholeheartedly recommend it for your next trip. 

Due to the length of this week’s Destination Spotlight, I omitted the personal highlights of my time in Zagreb. So, if you have any questions about traveling to Croatia or the Balkans, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at [email protected]. 

Travel well everyone,

Big Body