5 Beautiful Runs in Poland For the Ultimate Runner’s High

People are always confused after they look at me and then I tell them I’m a 4 to 5x per week runner. After all, my name is Big Body. I can’t blame them at all. Simply put, running fuels my eating and drinking. It’s probably one of the driving reasons behind my exploring so many new restaurants, cafes, and bars, and subsequently, writing about them here. 

So you know damn well that in any city I show up to, I have to (a) map out a formidable route that burns calories before a big night of gourmandizing, and (b) ensure it’s enjoyable in the process.

That’s not all though. I’ve found that strapping on my running shoes and getting out there with the best of them, no matter the city or country I’m in, is an underrated way to explore a place. It’s one of the best ways to truly get a feel for if the town or city you’re in could feasibly be one that you can enter into a comfortable, sustainable routine. 

There’s also something to be said about “feeling part of a community,” especially when you live somewhat of an itinerant lifestyle - even if just for 30 minutes per day. I do not doubt that the numerous scenic, well-defined running paths that can be found in every corner of Poland were one of the key reasons a two-week trip in the name of pierogi and brotherly love, turned into a 2.5-month stay.

I’ve made sure to attach screenshots of my Strava routes and maps to give you an idea of the routes that worked for me. Fortunately, each run listed below has multiple on-ramp and off-ramp points, so you can really start the run wherever you want and/or wherever is most convenient for you. A lot of the information below is anecdotal and I won’t be making note of every single marker or checkpoint you should keep an eye out for. 

All 5 of these runs make for fantastic walks as well!

Whether you’re just lacing up the boots for your first couch to 5k or consider yourself the Eliud Kipchoge of your hometown, here are 5 of the best runs in Poland that will give you the ultimate runner’s high. 

Pale Ale Travel Note: All of the routes below are listed in km (kilometers) as I’ve been living abroad for so long now it’s primarily the metric I use. It’s also commonly used for both local and national races in the U.S., so I figure this at least can be easily understood by the majority of readers. 

1. Vistula River (Warsaw)

• Address: Świętokrzyski Bridge, Śląsko-Dąbrowski Bridge, Łazienkowski Bridge

• Getting There: Head east from the Old Town until you hit the water.

• Length: 5 km to 10 km-plus

First off, Warsaw is one cool city. It’s a blend of Eastern, Central, and Western Europe, and from my observations, seems to be refashioning itself more into the likes of a Central European-Western European hybrid. That’s not particularly related to running but I just wanted to let you know that you’re in for a treat, should you decide to travel to the ‘Phoenix City’.

At the heart of Poland’s resilience, reconstruction, growth, and transformation is the Vistula River. I don’t even want to use the term ‘river’ when describing it because it’s so much more than that. It’s a symbol that makes up the very fabric of Poland’s identity. As the most important waterway in the country, it has served as a monumental driver of trade, expansion, and connectivity. 

It also just so happens to be the perfect place to run. After tossing back several plates of pierogi Ruskie or goulash at a traditional Polish milk bar, you’re going to need to burn some calories. And, there’s no better spot than the Vistula. 

If you want kilometers on top of kilometers (or miles on top of miles) of multi-use, scenic paths, which even includes a gaggle of “beachfront” (aka waterfront) restaurants and bars to post up for a cold one post-5km, then this is the Warsaw run for you.

Feeling a run where you get to soak in the hustle and bustle of the city (and its palpable energy)? The bank closest to the Old Town is going to be your best friend. Looking for a more tranquil, off-the-beaten-path run that’s a bit easier on the joints? The Praga District side is going to be “the play.”

The Vistula sports a mix of both traditional paved and developed trails and dirt paths (which are still well-marked), where you’ll find a mix of cyclists, families out for their daily constitutional, hardcore runners with their electrolyte gels, and everyone in between. 

Two formidable “launch points” are Most Łazienkowski (Łazienkowski Bridge) and the Gdański Bridge (637 Bridge) - 5 km between the two points. However, if you’re coming right from the Old Town, Śląsko-Dąbrowski Bridge is a popular spot to start your run (no matter the side) and where I first put this Big Body into motion.

Pale Ale Travel Note: Serious runners could start at Gdański Bridge and make their way down to Łazienki Park to further bolster their run. However, this is one popular park (and, in my opinion, one of the best urban parks in all of Europe), so I’d only tackle this run at “off-peak hours,” such as early in the morning or late at night. 

Considering that the Vistula River is over 1,000 km long, you can carve out whatever route and/or distance that best suits you. Simply head down to the water, choose a side, and follow the paths (in either direction). My personal favorite and most frequented run was along the Praga side (not the Old Town), where I’d follow the river to the northwest and loop back for a cool, calm, and collected 5k.

The only major note is that the Praga side’s paths are not continuous and do “break up” at points. However, this is easily remedied by popping up to the road and continuing in your intended direction before ripping back down along the water. 

I prefer a less crowded run and enjoyed looping it together with a trip around Park Praski and the City Zoological Garden, followed by a piping hot, flaky meat-filled pastry at the popular chebureki stall (called Czebureki) to finish things off. I also enjoyed occasionally popping down to a little vantage point along the water’s edge to snap a pic and take in the sunset (9 PM in summertime!)

Pale Ale Travel Tip: On the way back from one of my afternoon/night runs along the Vistula, you may or may not have been able to find me snacking on one of Poland’s legendary snack foods, the zapiekanka. Check out this post I wrote breaking down two righteous zapiekanka restaurants in Warsaw to get a taste of this customizable, massive open-faced toasted sandwich (with all the toppings). 

2. Vistula River (Kraków)

• Address: Dębnicki Bridge, Most Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego Bridge

• Getting There: Head south from the Old Town or south from Kazimierz and you’ll hit the river.

• Length: 5 km to 20 km

I know what you’re thinking. “The Vistula River, twice?” Trust me, if both Warsaw and Kraków are on your travel and/or running itinerary, you will inevitably find yourself along the Vistula. 

Remember, this is a 1,000 km long river (and the 9th longest in all of Europe) that runs from the south of Poland up north to deposit into the Baltic Sea. No one section or area is the same. Kraków is also a more compact city, so a run along the Vistula makes it feel like you’re covering more ground and more sites than in Warsaw.

Maybe I’m a bit biased but the Vistula River runs in Kraków just “hit differently” and were my favorite during my time in Poland. I attribute this to undertaking my first several runs with my brother, who I had met up with for the first time after six years. There wasn’t a better feeling than getting the blood pumping and capping things off with a beer while reconnecting on the outdoor terrace of our hotel’s cafe - to “hydrate,” of course.

For my brother, who just was getting back into running after several years, Kraków’s Vistula River trails were the ideal spot both in terms of difficulty and scenery to ease into things. While a great running option for beginners, it’s also the “ultimate runner’s run,” as the east-flowing Vistula offers up a loop of up to 20 km. 

My personal favorite was to head east from Dębnicki Bridge (on the Old Town bank of the river) along the north bank of the river and pass by Kazimierz (Kraków’s Jewish Quarter), which resulted in anywhere from a 5km to 7.5km run, depending on if I crossed over to the Podgórze District (which the Vistula River bifurcates) via the Dąbie barrage. 

From there, I’d weave in and out of Podgórze while maintaining somewhat of a “parallel” to the river while returning west and then crossing back over to the north side of the Vistula (just south of Kazimierz) via the Most Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego Bridge or Dębnicki Bridge (closer to the Old Town). 

If you head west from Dębnicki Bridge, that’s where things get really serious and can be turned into a 20 km loop, with Krakówski Rope Park being the 5 km market from Dębnicki Bridge. 

3. Błonia Park (Kraków)

• Address: 33-332 Kraków, Poland

• Getting There: Head east from the Old Town and look for the National Museum in Kraków, which sits right across from the start of the run.

• Length: 3.6 km 

Błonia Park is the epitome of a ‘local runner’s run’. I wouldn’t even call it a park. It’s a field. A plain. A vacant area that just so happens to have grass in the middle. But it’s where all serious runners in Kraków go. To be honest, I get the sense that it’s “slept-on” and underrated as it’s not the most aesthetically pleasing (but it ain’t ugly either). 

It’s flat, it’s predictable, and it provides a nice little refuge from the often overwhelming center of the city (specifically, the Old Town). It’s extremely easy to get into a routine and also track your PRs here. 

Why I love Błonia is that it’s also a hotspot for everyone and their grandmother post-work to get some steps in, rollerblade, and soak in a gorgeous Poland summer (I can’t speak to Błonia in the winter time). 

This 3.6km loop takes you around the park via a wide paved path, one with a defined bicycle (and rollerblade) path and a walking/running path. The pavement is also marked every 0.5 km or so, which allows you to easily keep track of how far you’ve run without looking at your phone (a crime I’m TOO guilty of). You can also run along the dirt and grass paths should you want to alleviate any stress on the joints.

Błonia Park was (and is) my preferred run in Kraków when I wanted to surround myself with other runners and feel part of the city’s social and athletic fabric. It’s where all the major running groups in the city seem to congregate to start their run as well - including the ‘Kraków Parkrun’, a free group that tackles a 5 km run every Saturday morning. 

As someone who isn’t a particularly advanced runner, one thing that I was able to discover during my nightly runs in Kraków (which was my most frequent run/route in the city) was the beauty of using others to pace yourself. Because Błonia is filled with runners of all levels, seriously, I’m currently looking at Strava data of 4:30 minute mile runners around Błonia, next to 20-minute milers, along with the sheer number of runners out on any given night, there is always someone I could trail and use as a pacer. 

At points, I’m sure I made others uncomfortable as it seemed like I was following them but I shed any sort of guilt over that after the first time someone started using me as a pacer. I also found that slower rollerbladers worked very well for this. 

If you’re staying in the Old Town, consider pairing the run with a quick warm-up or loop around ‘Planty’ (or a section of it), the large urban park that surrounds the Old Town and is a popular jaunt for both tourists and locals. Planty always seemed to make itself into my run, whether it was just to warm up on my way to Błonia or for a quick cool down. 

You can also swing down south to Dębnicki Bridge after you complete your first loop and extend the run along the Vistula (the run mentioned above) or head east from Błonia to the Wolski Forest (which sports over 35 km of trails). 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you’re like me and enjoy an ice-cold beer after a summer eve’s run, make sure to check out the Bezogródek Tropical Spot Food Truck Park just across the street from the northwest corner of Błonia, where you’ll find lounge chairs in the sand, assorted food trucks, and several bars. 

4. Opływ Motławy (Gdańsk)

• Address: Wyskok Bastion, The Żubr Bastion (two great starting points)

• Getting There: Follow the water south from Wyspa Spichrzów (the small island east of the Main City) until you hit The Żubr Bastion or see Wyspa na Motławie

• Length: 3.5 km (one way)

Opływ Motławy is one of the more interesting runs I’ve embarked on as (a) it weaves in and out of a marsh/wetland with old Dutch fortifications, (b) has raised paths overlooking the water, and (c) is in an area that is undoubtedly less tread by tourists.

Specifically, Opływ Motławy is the connecting piece between the better-known Motława River, which runs through Gdańsk, and the Martwa Wisła, a branch of the Vistula (which literally translates to the ‘Dead Vistula’). 

While sometimes, the words get caught in my throat and I can’t say 'em no good, I think the proper term to describe Opływ Motławy would be “estuary,” due to its proximity to the Baltic Sea (salt water) and fastening of freshwater rivers.

It’s also the shortest run on the list, maxing out at just over 3.5 km from north to south (and vice versa). You can double back of course. The paths are brick-surfaced and boast picturesque views of the water and its wildlife. 

Gdańsk, even more so than Kraków, can feel incredibly dense and overcrowded at points. I can’t fault anyone as the city is incredibly gorgeous and vibrant. So, the several times my brother and I made our way 15 to 20 minutes outside of the Main City, it felt like we were in a different world - equally as “gorgeous and vibrant” but in a different way - a more organic and natural way (of course).

This is a very specific reference but Opływ Motławy very much reminds me of Newmarket and Durham, New Hampshire walks I would take with my mother and brother growing up, which would see us stroll along the Great Bay and taking in the multitudinous flora and fauna we’d encounter.

That’s actually a great transition to this next point. Keep an eye out on your run for northern and yellow water lilies that line the water, and Canadian geese, swans, and wigeons. With estuaries and marshes come thriving wildlife ecosystems - which take what could be “just another run” into the stratosphere of unforgettable runs. 

Who wouldn’t want to channel their inner Ace Ventura?

Finally, don’t forget to swing by Bastion Żubr while on the run (or before or after), the most well-preserved remaining 17th-century Dutch fortification (of the 14 left). It’s located in the southwest corner and where Opływ Motławy meets the Motława. These bastions and fortifications are unique in the way that they are pentagonal earthen structures covered in dense grass and dirt, appearing as large mounds. 

Pale Ale Travel Tip: If you like this article and are heading to Asia, make sure to check out my post breaking down 4 of the best runs in Osaka, Japan. 

5. Warta River (Poznań)

• Address: Saint Roch Bridge (my go-to launching point)

• Getting There: Head southeast of the Old Town and you’ll inevitably hit the Warta.

• Length: 5 km to 8 km-plus

Not to be overshadowed by the glory of the Vistula, the Warta River is Poland’s second longest river (within the confines of the country itself), flowing northwest towards Germany (Frankfurt an der Oder). Unsurprisingly, the Warta also connects to the Vistula River, right near Bydgoszcz in Poland’s northwest. 

The Warta, like the Vistula, also sports multi-use and dual-side paths. It might just be my personal “jam” when running, but I prefer crossing over the Saint Roch Bridge, to Nowe Miasto, to run north along the river, which merges with the ‘Cybina River’, a small river that flows into the Warta. 

This run takes you past Jordan Bridge, where you’ll find hundreds/thousands of love locks, and the towering Poznań Cathedral, which stands as a shimmering, ethereal light in the night, before circling back down south on the Warta to the Saint Roch Bridge or the Old Town. 

The Polish really do it right in the way that you can find everything on both banks of the Warta. From beach bars to small restaurants, food trucks, and even gyms, people are always hanging out by the water and enjoying being one with nature. 

Should you run south, expect up to 4 km of paved paths along the water, or consider turning it into an 8 km-plus loop by swinging back on the other side (Nowe Miasto side). You can even extend the run by pairing it with Saint Paul II Park, which is roughly 2.5 km to the south of the Saint Roch Bridge and offers an extra 1.5 km of park paths (a loop). 

In Poznań, you’ll find locals out running and walking at all hours of the day (and night). However, if traveling to Poland in the summer, I recommend running late afternoon or nighttime, as it is definitely cooler. I went on several runs during my 2.5 months in Poland that I almost had to turn back as the mid-day heat was so unbearable. 

A funny little story about running along the Warta…You’ll find numerous outdoor lounges, restaurants, and hangout spots along the river banks of the Warta (similar to the Vistula in Warsaw). On one of my final night runs, I laced up and made it out the door, crossing over to the Nowe Miasto side, opposite from the Old Town. As I made my way along the riverside, I suddenly found myself surrounded by about 50 party-goers and realized I was in the middle of some sort of rave/party. 

I think I surprised them as much as they surprised me. 

Pale Ale Travel: Make sure to check out my day in the life in Poznań video, where you’ll get a glimpse of me running along the Warta and what it’s like!

Run Away From Your Problems With One of These Runs in Poland

My 5x-per-week runs in Poland were the highlight of my time in the country. Not only were they a fantastic way to reconnect and share a moment with my brother but they were great for burning off some of the schabowy (schnitzel) and Żywiec piwos (beer) I was consuming “on the reg.” 

Also, as someone who does not speak Polish, it was isolating at points and I really did miss having some sort of personal connection with people. However, encountering other runners or pacing myself behind them on nights out really did help me keep a stable emotional baseline and feel less alone. 

Finally, the amount of hole-in-the-wall and authentically local experiences, restaurants, or other sites that you’ll find while on a run will solidify the fact that this is truly one of the best ways to explore a new city or country.

It bears repeating, you don’t have to ‘run’ to experience the natural beauty of Poland. Just get out there, walk, and explore - with or without a purpose. I guarantee that you’ll stumble upon something memorable or a place to circle back to later. 

Finally, don’t forget to pick up the free 9-day Poland travel itinerary that I put together, which covers Warsaw, Kraków, and Gdańsk. I’ve also rolled out a 2-day Poznan travel itinerary! 

If you have any questions about traveling to Poland (specifically, those four cities), please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at [email protected]. 

Also, if you’ve run or walked on any of these trails, I’d love to hear from you! Or, let me know a favorite run in Poland!

Run well everyone,

Big Body