Realistic 9-Day, 8-Night Poland Travel Itinerary (Warsaw, Kraków, Gdańsk) + PDF (Part Two)

Thank you for reading Part 1 of my Realistic 9-Day, 8-Night Poland Travel Itinerary! This is the second and final part.

Make sure to subscribe for this 9-day Poland Travel itinerary in a short PDF form (all the quick hit must-dos).

You can find three supplementary articles/docs here, which cover:

• 4 Hotels We Stayed at & Loved on Our Poland Trip;

• Poland Restaurant, Cafe, & Bar Mega-List (this can be used to supplement any of the establishments below);

• Bonus Poland Travel Tips & What I’d Do Different Next Time.

Pale Ale Travel Note: If you have any questions about traveling to Poland, the itinerary, or about any other recommendations, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at [email protected].

Day 5: Monday (Kraków → Gdańsk)

Overview

• 5 hour train from Kraków to Gdańsk

• Hotel check-in

• Coffee and snacks at Cafe Kamienica

• Explore Gdańsk Main City & Granary Island

• Lunch at Montownia Food Hall

• Souvenir shopping

• Dinner at Brovarnia Gdańsk I Restauracja i Browar w Gdańsku

• Walk along water (Gdańsk Neon Sign and Amber Sky)

Morning - Train to Gdańsk

This is objectively the biggest travel day, as it takes roughly 5 hours from Kraków Główny to Gdańsk Główny via train. So, the entire morning is reserved for travel to Gdańsk.

Because of the somewhat long haul before us, we booked second-class tickets via Omio for the 7:59 AM train from Kraków Główny to Gdańsk Główny (roughly USD 50 per person), putting us in right around 1 PM. 

Once again, I recommend that you book trains with 0 changes, even if it is slightly more expensive. This cuts out stress and “lost time” due to transferring trains.

Important Polish Train & Interrail Note! 

One thing that may cause a little confusion is that oftentimes with the train ticket you book in Poland, your final stop is NOT the final stop of the train. 

For example, my brother and I were slightly confused after looking up at the train departures board at Kraków Główny and seeing the train number on our ticket but with a different destination (Gdynia Główna). However, we were reassured by a station employee that it was because the final destination was Gdynia Główna, we just needed to make sure we alighted at the correct stop (Gdańsk Główny). 

The point is - as long as the train number (ex. EIC/EIP + number) is the same, you are on the right path to your destination. And, when in doubt, just ask a station employee or bystander and they will more than likely sort you out. 

Afternoon - Explore Gdańsk Main City & Granary Island + Bite at Montownia Food Hall

We arrived in Gdańsk just after 1 PM. Polish trains were extremely reliable and prompt during our several travel days - this may be different in winter though. Gdańsk is a comparatively ‘compact’ city to both Warsaw and Kraków, with the majority of what you will want to experience being heavily concentrated in the Main City. 

This makes for a quick and pleasant 1 km (or less) walk from Gdańsk Główny to the Main City. There are also available taxis and Uber/Bolt pick-up points directly outside of the station. We arrived at our hotel, Artus. Hotel, located directly across from St. Mary’s Church, in under 15 minutes of arrival at Gdańsk Główny and checked in. 

Artus. Hotel is named after Artus Court, an off-white building along the Long Market that was a popular meeting spot for merchants and locals looking to socialize. 

After dropping our luggage in the room, it was time to get oot and aboot as the Canadians say. But first, a quick snack and coffee to power up. 

We stopped by Cafe Kamienica (right around the corner) to scarf down one of the better quiches I’ve eaten in my life along with several scintillatingly sweet (yet strong) iced caramel lattes. Make sure to sit at an outside table and soak in the energy of the Main City and its constituents (and tourists). 

Gdańsk is bifurcated by the Nowa Motława River (a branch of the Motława River), which feeds into the Martwa Wisła River (a branch of the Vistula River), and ultimately the Gulf of Gdańsk in the Baltic Sea. The west side of the Nowa Motława River is home to the Main City while directly to the east is a small island called ‘Granary Island’ (Wyspa Spichrzów). 

Gdańsk’s Main City is the central, historical focal point of the city and is home to some of the city’s most well-known fixtures and monuments, including St. Mary’s Church, Main City Hall, Golden Gate, and the Long Market, while Granary Island is home to countless Western hotel chains and local boutique hotels, bustling restaurants and cafes, souvenir shops, and small bakeries. True to its name, Granary Island was once home to over 7 granaries (with all of Gdańsk Harbour amassing 300-plus granaries at its peak).  

You’ll, of course, also find numerous first-rate restaurants, snack stalls, cafes, and other dining establishments in Gdańsk’s Main City.  

We spent the afternoon crisscrossing the bridges between Gdańsk’s Main City and Granary Island, taking colorful photos of the Long Market (the multicolor buildings you likely saw in a Gdańsk Instagram video), Neptune’s Fountain, St. Mary’s Church, and more. 

Consider crossing over to the small island just north of Granary Island called Ołowianka via the drawbridge and riding or snapping photos of the AmberSky observation wheel or posing in front of the Gdańsk Neon Sign (we loved circling back here at night for photo opportunities). 

Keep an eye out for the Gdańsk Black Pearl pirate ship/pirate cruise in the harbor, which you can book a tour on. It will take you up north along the river to the Westerplatte Monument, which sits right before the Martwa Wisła River and feeds into the Baltic Sea.   

A walk through the Main City and along the riverfront (Nowa Motława River) before crossing over to Granary Island (and doing the same) is easily something you can spend hours doing (and what my brother and I did). 

Post up at any one of the restaurants or cafes along the water when peckish or in need of caffeine, and you have a quintessential Gdańsk afternoon. 

We were smitten with the sheer vibrancy and colors of the houses and buildings (pictured above) that lined the riverfront and enjoyed the afternoon walking around and just getting a feel for the city and its layout. 

Wanting to get away from the bustle of Gdańsk’s Main City and Granary Island, and get a snack to hold us over until dinner, my brother and I made our way north to Montownia Food Hall. 

Montownia is Gdańsk’s largest food hall and collection of restaurants/stalls serving up everything from Indian and Asian cuisine (including dim sum) to Greek gyros and souvlaki, Ukrainian comfort food, and Italian pizzas. I’m a sucker for food halls and just find them to be great overall places to satisfy the gastronomic needs of multiple people (without having to compromise). 

With Greek blood in our veins, we knew a souvlaki from Great Greek Montownia was already written in the prophecy. What’s not to love about crisp, well-salted french fries stuffed on top of a warm pita and paired with marinated meat? This definitely hit the spot. 

As football (soccer) fans and recurrent wearers of jerseys, we stopped at Lions of the North S.C. sportswear store on the walk back to the Main City. Lechia Gdańsk is the hometown team, with the Lions of the North referring to the collective supporters and paying homage to the two lions lifting the Polish coat of arms. They are set to play in the top Polish league after winning the second tier in ‘23/’24. 

Pale Ale Travel Note: The Ekstraklasa, Polish’s top football league, generally runs from mid to end of July through to the end of May of the next year. Unfortunately, we missed out due to timing our trip in early/mid-June (and also not realizing that Lechia Gdańsk was in the second league). If you’re a football/soccer fan, definitely keep an eye out for matches during your travel dates as this would be a great experience (and one I still would love to have). 

We circled back through the Main City and took a quick breather before dinner.

Night - Dinner at Brovarnia Gdańsk & Walk Along the Water

During our exploration of Granary Island, I couldn’t help but notice a brewery and restaurant attached to the 5-star Hotel Gdańsk Boutique and unilaterally decided that’s where dinner and drinks were going to be that night. 

It was the first night on the trip that felt a bit more relaxed as we had nothing “officially scheduled” for the next day (other than a much-needed trip to the laundromat), so some piwos (beers) were definitely in order. Cue Brovarnia Gdańsk.

This Polish and Central European restaurant, powered by the oldest operating brewery in Poland, is comfort food at its finest and is the perfect spot for those wanting traditional Central European fare with a lively atmosphere (similar to a beer hall). 

Like most other nights eating out in Poland, I overdid it at Brovarnia Gdańsk, splitting the truffle oil-infused tenderloin carpaccio with my brother, wolfing down a traditional Polish sour soup by myself (with too many slices of bread), and rounding things off with a goliath baked beer and honey glazed ham hock with cabbage and potatoes. I felt ready to defend the city from barbarian attacks after this meal.

My brother was more conservative and ordered the BBQ ribs with coleslaw and a jacket potato, which he raved about afterward. Come to think of it, neither of us had a bad meal the entire trip.  

We tossed back several Brovarnia wheat and gold piwos (beers) and weaved our way back along the water before retiring for the night. We timed things well with the sunset (post-9 PM) which made for several impromptu photo shoots along the water.

Day 6: Tuesday (Gdańsk)

Overview

• Breakfast at Balans Coffee Specialty & Breakfast

• Walk to and along Opływ Motławy

• Museum of Gdańsk - Main Town Hall

• Run/walk along Opływ Motławy

• Czech beers at Balsam

• Dinner at Gdański Bowke in Main Town

• Night walk and photos in front of Gdańsk neon sign & AmberSky

Morning - Breakfast at Balans Coffee & Walk Along Opływ Motławy

My brother looked up a place nearby for breakfast and we headed over to Balans Coffee Specialty & Breakfast. It has been a hot minute since I’ve eaten a bagel so Balans was a pleasant surprise. 

You’ll find a handful of bagel options (and bagel sandwiches) such as the Roma, with prosciutto, pear, mozzarella, pesto, and arugula (it was absolutely delicious), the Vege, with bean pate, beetroot, gherkins, and a maple mustard/chili mayo combo, and the Halloumi, with grilled halloumi cheese (of course), avocado paste, dried tomatoes, and pineapple. 

My brother opted for a Club Sandwich to start the day, which he noted was a great light but fresh first meal (perfect for a full walking/running day ahead). Balans also serves up omelets and rotating cakes (along with strong coffee and even spirits/beers), so you should be able to find something to kick things off with emphasis (without weighing you down too much). 

There’s also outdoor/patio seating which allows you to catch some rays and wake up Andrew Huberman-style. 

We both knew that a run was ahead of us for the day so it was important to scout out a viable (and scenic) location. Running around the Main Town wasn’t really an option, so we headed south. 

Our first walk of the day was in furtherance mapping our route for the afternoon, which brought us down to Bastion Zubr and Wyskok Bastion, 16th-century fortifications down along the Opływ Motławy - a former moat and waterway that’s now a historical landmark. 

This is somewhat an “off the beaten path” type of adventure where you’ll catch a lot of local Gdańskers out for their morning walk or run, enjoying the fresh air. It was well worth it and a nice little break from the crowded Main Town. 

We started southwest of the Main Town/Granary Island by walking down to Bastion Zubr and followed the path northeast along the water (Opływ Motławy) until we reached Elbląska Street/501. Elbląska/501 will lead you back through the middle of Granary Island if you follow it the whole way. 

At the intersection with the Brama Zulawska (a medieval tower), we continued straight onto Długie Ogrody which also runs through Granary Island. After crossing the bridge to Granary Island, I stopped for a quick pastry at Piekarnia w budce (an extremely affordable little bakery with an open window). 

It was as if Dunkin’ Donuts was operated by your grandmother who has 50-plus years of baking delicious goods and other treats under her belt. I highly recommend it and can vouch that it’s a delicious little sweet snack to hold you over until lunch or afternoon beers.   

Afternoon - Museum of Gdańsk (Main Town Hall) + Run Along Opływ Motławy

It was time to charge up, so I stopped briefly at I Love You - Gdańsk | Coffee, Breakfast, Cakes & Drinks (what a name) along the Main Town waterside to grab a double espresso to go. It’s a cute little coffee shop with water views, cakes and tortes, and breakfast favorites like shakshuka and breakfast sandwiches.

It’s time to learn what the city of Gdańsk is all about. Head over to the Museum of Gdańsk - Main Town Hall (located right in the Main Town, of course), which sports one of the most ornate and beautiful town halls in all of Europe. This Gothic-Renaissance building is home to gorgeous and intricate ceiling paintings, exhibitions of daily life in Gdańsk pre-war, vintage furniture from the 16th and 17th centuries, and rotating temporary exhibitions. 

If you want a panoramic view of Gdańsk, shell out the extra PLN 5 (USD 1.25) and climb up the tower.  

Gdańsk was the city (of the three) on this trip that my brother and I knew the least about, so it was fascinating to learn more about its history - especially in the building/epicenter of where Gdańsk’s most powerful and wealthy residents congregated. 

Overall, I recommend allotting anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 hours (closer to the latter if you go up the tower for panoramic views). My brother and I really enjoyed the in-depth write-ups that you can pick up at every room so we spent a bit longer as we made sure to read each one.

If your morning walk along Opływ Motławy was more than enough for the day, then it may be time to skip to the next recommendation below (shower + rest and/or grab a Czech beer at Balsam Piwna). However, if you’re looking to burn a few extra calories, it’s time for another walk/run along Opływ Motławy. 

My brother and I worked our way backward this time, starting at Elbląska Street/501 and running the 3.5 km southwest to Bastion Zubr and Wyskok Bastion. There were far more runners and cyclists out at this time so it was nice to feel part of the Gdańsk social fabric. 

We then walked back to Artus. Hotel to shower, rest up and change. We earned some beers (and so did you).

Night - Beers at Balsam, Dinner at Gdański Bowke, & Night Walk to Gdańsk Neon Sign/Observation Wheel

I’m a huge advocate for Czech beers. They’re crisp, flavorful, and frankly, beautiful to look at in their round, dimpled Tübinger glasses. So, when we passed by a quaint little bar called Cafe Balsam with outdoor seating and a Pilsner Urquell sign out front, the start of the night was already predetermined. 

It’s only a stone’s throw away from Artus, which made it a quick and easy stop before heading to dinner.

We steamrolled through several Pilsner Urquells and Kozels, the Kozel Černý (a dark beer with caramel notes) being our favorite and a perfect way to jumpstart the night. I definitely recommend sitting outside to soak in the energy of the city and people-watch.  

My brother selected Gdański Bowke along the Main Town water side, as we were, of course, feeling some traditional Polish cuisine and looking for some live music to invigorate our eating. 

Gdański Bowke’s menu of assorted tartare, pierogi, soups and salads, and meat dishes was right up our alley.

The potato pancakes (placki ziemniaczane) were the highlight and my brother’s first time trying them, along with the schabowy (pork schnitzel). I took down a rack of roasted ribs with pan-fried dumplings and sweet and sour cabbage (infused with bacon bits) and finished the night off with my first dessert of the trip, apple pie with ice cream. 

If you’re in the market for quality, hearty Polish food (what Polish food isn’t hearty?), I can’t recommend this place enough.

There’s also something incredibly calming about witnessing a Gdańsk sunset along the water. The city is so colorful and watching the vibrant buildings “power down” for the night and take a new, tranquil form is a feeling (and image) you won’t forget. 

Spent with a loved one or friend, I can’t think of many better ways to end the day.

We finished the night off with a walk north along the water, crossing over the drawbridge to take more photos in front of the Gdańsk Neon Sign and Amber Sky (the observation wheel). 

Amber Sky is open until 10 PM and makes for an accessible, relaxed way to see the entirety of Gdańsk and wind down for the night. 

Day 7: Wednesday (Gdańsk)

Overview

• Laundry & coffee 

• Lunch & shopping at Galeria Madison

• Gdańsk Maritime Museum

• Walk around Main City

• Early dinner at Kebab King

• Drinks at Piwo na Piwnej or Wiśniewski Gdańsk

Morning - Laundry, Shopping, & a Kebab

Look, it’s tough to pack for a nearly 10-day trip. My brother and I both ran through underwear and socks like they were going extinct, meaning it was laundry day. For you, this may mean taking it easy and having a slower morning (or branching off from this itinerary until about noon to do your own thing - trust me, I won’t take it personally). 

There is a chain of professional, self-service laundromats spread across every corner of Poland called Speed Queen Pralnia samoobsługowa. I first discovered this in Warsaw and was elated to learn Gdańsk was home to one. 

Speed Queen laundromats are convenient, easy-to-use spots where you can wash your clothes. They are slightly expensive and may cost anywhere from USD 10 to USD 20 for 15kg to 20kg of laundry, however, they are far more affordable than hotel laundry services. They also boast simple, clear instructions in English. 

We made our way slightly north of the Main Town to Speed Queen Pralnia samoobsługowa and threw in several loads of laundry. We opted for making the 10 to 15-minute walk north because of the mall adjacent (Galeria Handlowa Madison) and Starbucks right across the street. This allowed us to kill several birds with one stone. 

We caffeinated up during the first washing cycle and then made our way over to Galeria Handlowa Madison to walk around, grab a kebab at Berlin Doner Kebap, and pick up several souvenirs and toys for my brother’s dog. The food court at Galeria Handlowa Madison was a nice look into how Gdańsk locals live and eat while shopping (as I have fond memories of growing up as a “mall kid”). 

The kebab from Berlin Doner Kebap, for being a ‘mall food court kebab’, didn’t sacrifice on quality, size, or flavor and gave all previously eaten kebabs a run for its money in taste (and definitely in pricing) - a great mid-day snack that I recommend anyone in the area consider grabbing. 

After folding and packing our duffle bags with freshly washed and dried clothes, we walked back to the Main Town and picked up several final souvenirs (t-shirts, magnets, and postcards) at Sklep z Pamiątkami Pamiątki Souvenirs (just in the northwest corner of the Main Town). 

There are more than a handful of souvenir shops on Szeroka Street and Pańska Street to browse and pick up gifts for friends and family.  

Afternoon - Gdańsk National Maritime Museum

We made our way back to Artus to drop off our souvenirs and collect ourselves. By the time we rallied, it was 2 PM. And it was time for knowledge. We Googled to see if there were any Gdańsk museums with ‘free entrance’ on Wednesdays and were happily surprised to learn that the National Maritime Museum (less than a 10-minute walk from our hotel) was one. 

Once again, keep an eye out for free admission days on your Poland trip as this can allow you to experience some of the best museums and exhibits you’ll ever see, without breaking the bank.

Gdańsk is a port city with a rich history powered by international trade and shipping routes (which allowed for the transportation of key exports down the Vistula River), fishing and seafaring, amber processing (a large supply of the world’s amber deposits are found on the Baltic Coast), and shipbuilding and preservation. 

The museum is hard to miss when you’re along the water in the Main Town and Granary Island as the white, black, and red retired coal and ore freighter SS Sołdek is prominently fixed in the water out front. 

The National Maritime Museum has it all. 

Exhibitions providing insight into the everyday lives of port workers and merchants, popular artworks depicting maritime activities in and around the Gdańsk port, the history of shipbuilding, glimpses into the unglamorous life one could expect living and working on a major Polish ship, historical exhibits and depictions of the Polish-Teutonic Wars and various battles with competing powers, and even a small hall dedicated to Poland’s present-day participation in global regattas and other maritime sports.

This was another highlight of our time in Gdańsk. You will need at least 3 hours to explore all of the exhibits and halls here as it is packed with information and engaging displays. 

Now, you may not be thrilled with this recommendation but we were crashing hard and stopped off for yet another kebab, this time at Kebab King - where we picked up the largest kebab stuffed with french fries we’ve ever laid eyes on (it was over a foot long). Kebab King sits just on the corner of Szafarnia Street and Długie Ogrody, making for an easy walk back to your hotel by way of Granary Island. 

After several laps around the Main City, we made our way back to the hotel to rest up. If you’re still up for it, this would be a great time to check out one of Gdańsk’s other museums (although museums back to back can be tough sometimes) such as:

• Museum of the Second World War: A look into the past, present, and future of ethnic Poles from WW1 to WW2 and after. 

• Museum of Amber: A small, intimate museum housed in a former prison that explores the collection and impact of amber on Baltic trade and society. 

• European Solidarity Centre: Both a museum and library dedicated to Solidarity, the Polish trade union (and nonviolent resistance movement) opposing the Eastern Bloc and the spread of communism. 

Night - Walk Along Opływ Motławy & Drinks at Piwo na Piwnej/Wiśniewski Gdańsk

If you were unable to make the trip yesterday, I recommend making the short trek down to Opływ Motławy to walk along the water - a great way to work up a little appetite before dinner. 

As I mentioned in the beginning, I’m keeping this itinerary one hunna pacent (100%) so I don’t actually have a dinner recommendation. We stuffed ourselves silly with two giant kebabs earlier in the day and were really only in need of some drinks and snacks from the nearby Zabka (convenience store). 

This could be a great time to fire up Google Maps and select a restaurant that’s close to you. Or, check out this Reddit thread which breaks down some of the best restaurants and bites in the city. 

While we didn’t have room in our stomachs for any more food, we did still have room for liquid sustenance and popped out for an hour’s walk around the Main Town and west of the Main Town followed by several local Gdańsk beers from Piwo na Piwnej right near the Artus. Hotel (our hotel). Piwo na Piwnej actually means ‘beer and cocktails’ so there’s something to choose from for everyone in your party. 

My only real regret about this night is that we didn’t make it to Wisniewski Gdańsk, a popular bar specializing in ‘Polish cherry liqueur’ right across from St. Mary’s Church. We would walk by this every day and it caught my eye just how happy everyone looked while standing outside and sipping their small goblet of red liqueur. Keep in mind that it’s cash only. 

However, we had a big day ahead with travel back to Warsaw and a nightly Chopin concert lined up that Thursday night, so I’m actually quite thankful we had a more restful day and night. Sometimes, you just have to play it a bit slow. Travel can be a marathon, not a sprint. 

Day 8: Thursday (Gdańsk → Warsaw)

Overview

• 2.5-3 hour train from Gdańsk to Warsaw

• Hotel check-in

• Lunch at Polish milk bar (Bar Mleczny Śmietanka Towarzyska)

• Coffee at CoffeeDesk

• Run/walk along the Vistula

• Chopin nightly concert

• Beers at Same Krafty Vis-a-Vis

• Walk around Old Town and dinner at Zapiecek 

Morning - Train to Warsaw & Hotel Check-In

My brother and I knew that we were going to have an action-packed day (and night) in Warsaw, so opted to take a slightly later train to Warsaw at 9:59 AM. My brother did sneak off to grab some KFC while I figured out our platform at Gdańsk Główny. 

Once again, we booked 2nd Class tickets via Omio. By this point in the trip, we were comfortable with navigating Poland’s interrail, so everything went smoothly and my brother didn’t hear me neurotically questioning myself about whether we were on the right platform or not.  

After arriving in Warsaw at 12:30 PM, we checked into our hotel (IHG InterContinental Warsaw), just a 10-minute walk from Warsaw Centralna, and drank a coffee in the lobby. 

Afternoon - Lunch at Traditional Milk Bar & Vistula Walk/Run

It was time to finally try a traditional Polish milk bar (known as ‘bar mleczny’ throughout Poland). Polish milk bars are staples and institutions behind traditional Polish cuisine. They are no-frills cafeterias that were once subsidized by the government during Communist times, in the name of providing traditional Polish cuisine at an affordable price. 

Present-day milk bars are privately owned but still partially subsidized by the government, allowing them to keep costs down. 

I love them and it wouldn’t be a true Poland trip if you didn’t eat at a milk bar. Milk bars are very popular and often have a line so I recommend going at ‘off-hours’ if you aren’t on too tight of a schedule.

I had spotted a low-key milk bar called Bar Mleczny Śmietanka Towarzyska right near the Holiday Inn when I stayed there my first few nights and recommended we go there. There are countless milk bars scattered across Warsaw, so if you aren’t near Śmietanka Towarzyska, simply Google ‘bar mleczny’ and see what’s in your area. 

I recommend just doing a little research on how to pronounce exactly what you want as the lines can move quickly and this can help better ensure you receive what you want. Or, simply point at whoever is in front of you who looks like they ordered something delicious and just get the same. 

My personal favorites at milk bars are the classic schnitzel (schabowy) with potatoes (ziemniaki), stuffed chicken filets (filet z kurczaka), and goulash (gulasz). Oh, and pierogi. You can never go wrong with pierogi. 

Keep in mind that most are cash-only. However, more and more milk bars do seem to be accepting credit cards and electronic payments these days. 

After getting some hearty Polish cuisine in you, it’s time to burn it off. Consider grabbing a coffee at CoffeeDesk or STOR (both have several locations scattered across Warsaw). 

My brother and I snagged a quick coffee at CoffeeDesk Prozna and sat outside (they have great outdoor seating) for about 30 minutes before heading back to the hotel to run. 

Because you have the Chopin Nightly Concert in the Dean’s Palace Archdiocese Museum (Old Town) ahead of you, I either (a) recommend taking a walk/run around your hotel, or (b) getting dressed for the concert and taking a walk along the Vistula River, working your way up to the Old Town (where the concert is).

We ran at the gym in our hotel and I expertly wielded the iron to bring our finest button-downs up to snuff for the concert. 

Night - Chopin Nightly Concert & Dinner at Zapiecek

This was a highlight of the trip for both my brother and me, as we spent much of our childhoods and teenage years playing in various school concert bands, attending band camp, and rocking out with our own bands (we were ‘ska kids’). 

It’s not required to book your tickets online, however, after our train miscue at the beginning of the trip, we wanted to ensure that we didn’t miss out (especially since it was our final night) - so we booked online. 

You can purchase nightly Chopin tickets over at: https://www.chopinconcerts.pl/ for about 75 Zloty (USD 19) per person. This will be the best $20 you’ve spent.

On Thursday night, it did pack up quickly though so I recommend purchasing your tickets online if you don’t want to leave it to chance. Or, get there 30 to 45 minutes before (the concert starts at 6:30 PM) and there’s a good chance you’ll be the only one there and should be more than fine.

Classically trained, touring, and internationally regarded musicians (pianists, virtuosos, and other artists) performing Chopin favorites (The Minute Waltz and Fantaisie-Impromptu being my favorites) in an intimate, 80-seat auditorium - where you are up close and personal with the artists. The concerts also only last 55 minutes (with one 10-minute intermission), so they are a perfect activity to start the night off.

I was in awe the entire time, unsure of how for USD 20, we were watching and listening to an award-winning international soloist and philharmonic titan (Ewa Beata Ossowka). My brother and I had her sign our programs and recapped the program over a few beers at Same Krafty Vis-a-Vis at a quirky, 10-tap (with countless bottles in a fridge as well) beer lover’s paradise. 

If you’re looking to taste the whole spectrum of Polish craft beer, this is your spot. We may or may not have gotten slightly carried away and thrown back a few more beers than we were anticipating, so we were slightly short on options for traditional Polish cuisine and settled on the popular chain Zapiecek.  

I had previously been to Zapiecek on one of my first nights in Warsaw before my brother arrived and was able to vouch for the quality of their mushroom cream sauce potato pancakes. While Zapiecek seems to be somewhat loved or hated by locals, the consensus is that they still do affordable traditional Polish cuisine. I also found a fair mix of Polish tourists and foreigners there. 

We threw back a plate of pierogi, a sour soup (I told you, it’s my favorite), pork knuckle, and potato pancakes covered in mushroom cream sauce. Honestly, Zapiecek is a reliable spot and somewhere I’m not disappointed to eat at. Just because it’s popular with tourists doesn’t mean the quality isn’t good. 

We did one final late-night walk around Warsaw’s Old Town and passed by the illuminated Palace of Culture & Science before retiring for the night. 

Day 9: Friday (Warsaw - Final Day)

Overview

• Coffee in hotel lobby

• Walk to and around Łazienki Park

• Lunch at Patelnia Patera or Smashny Burger

• POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews or Warsaw Rising Museum

• Rest

• Vistula River walk and drinks

• Dinner at Stary Dom or easy zapiekanka (street food)

Morning - Coffee & Łazienki Park Walk

While my brother left around 9 AM for his flight, the trip ain’t over yet. Maybe you’re staying for more than 8 nights or maybe you’re heading to a different Polish city at the end of the day, there’s still a full day ahead to experience Warsaw. Here is what I would do/and did some variation of. 

I snagged a quick coffee in the hotel lobby with my brother before he took an Uber to Warsaw Chopin Airport (Uber to the airport only takes about 15 to 20 minutes and costs under USD 10). This would be a great time to grab a coffee in the lobby or head out to try a new cafe. 

Here are a few recommendations:

• Tonka - right across from the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, serving up strong coffee and expertly crafted pastries. I definitely recommend opting for this if you decide to tour the POLIN Museum (you could swap the morning Łazienki Park walk for the afternoon). 

• SHELL CAFE - no this is not a SHELL gas station but a small friendly work-friendly cafe not too far from the Warsaw Rising Museum. 

• Sklep z Kawą i Kawiarnia - JAVA CAFE Speciality Roasters - located in the popular food hall Fabryka Norblina, this is a quick counter service almost kiosk (with a few ‘outdoor seats’ offering specialty coffees and pastries). 

Today is a great day to tackle any of the museums or experiences you didn’t get to check out on your first and only full day in Warsaw. I broke down why I recommend Łazienki Park above (on the first day), so please read that for further information. 

There’s a handful of small coffee bikes and stalls, along with ice cream and other snack stalls, spread throughout Łazienki Park and across its perimeter, so you can also get your caffeine fix there.

Afternoon - Lunch at Patelnia Patera or Smashny Burger & Museum of Your Choice

Presumably, you’re staying in a far more central location than Łazienki Park, which makes for an extremely enjoyable stroll back into the heart of the city - especially since there are two of my favorite restaurants just a stone’s throw away from the Hoża 04 tram stop (less than a 10-minute walk from the Centrum Metro Station). The two restaurants are: 

1. Patelnia Patera: refined traditional Polish cuisine that was made with unparalleled warmth. My favorites include the baltic herring tartare and the giant XXL pork chop (schabowy). Make sure to sit outside and soak in the energy of Wilcza (a popular restaurant and bar street). 

2. Smashny Burger: find me a better smash burger in Warsaw and I’ll find you a liar. A fluffy bun that lets the meat do all the talking. Smashny is fairly priced and fries up onion rings that will have you questioning why you always go for the fries. 

I made short Instagram videos on both of these restaurants, which you can check out here (Patelnia Patera) and here (Smashny Burger). You can also read a write-up I did on Smashny Burger here. 

I recommend that if you choose to go to Stary Dom for dinner, don’t fill up for lunch as you’ll want to make sure that you eat your fill (and then some) if you make the trip. 

Once again, here are three museums (well…one is a science center) that I recommend for an afternoon in Warsaw: 

• POLIN Museum of the History of the Polish Jews: One of the most comprehensive and informative museums I’ve been to. Built on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto, the POLIN Museum paints a vivid picture of the migration, existence, and traditions of the Polish Jews (from the First Crusade onwards) and their turbulent yet resilient history. This was a standout museum and one that you need, at minimum, 3 hours to truly explore (I spent upwards of 5 hours).

• Copernicus Science Center: Having received a C- in university-level physics (“the Physics of Music” to be exact), I felt intellectually compelled to check out the Copernicus Science Center (located on the bank of the Vistula River). With over 400 exhibits, a planetarium, and hands-on science workshops, this science center covers everything from astronomy to robotics. It’s definitely more geared towards children, however, that’s not to say that you’ll be out of place as an adult (or group). I recommend allocating, at minimum, 3 to 4 hours to ensure you cover all the exhibits, workshops, and experiments. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.  

• The Warsaw Rising Museum: An in-depth and interactive history of the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 by the Polish underground resistance against German occupation. This multi-floor museum includes everything from love letters of insurgents to the weapons used, films, recordings, and stories from uprising participants. There’s even a full-size B-24 Liberator (bomber plane) on display in the Freedom Hall. This took me just over 3 hours to complete but I would recommend a lotting at least 4 hours due to the number of tour groups and visitors. 

If I had to choose between the three for my final day, it would be either between the POLIN Museum or the Warsaw Rising Museum. Both are incredibly powerful museums - the first being for a broader comprehensive explanation of Polish Jews throughout history, and the latter focusing on a specific timeframe during WW2 and being tailored to Warsaw’s unique history.

Now, it’s time to rest up. It’s been a jam-packed day already and if you choose Stary Dom as your dining destination of the night, you’ll have a slight trek (or tram ride/Uber ride) to get there.

Night - Dinner at Stary Dom or a Zapiekanka + Drinks at Kufle i Kapsle

If you ate at Patelnia Patera for lunch, I probably wouldn’t recommend doubling up and capping the night off with Stary Dom. However, if you ate at Smashny Burger or had something lighter, then Stary Dom is a must for refined, upscale Polish cuisine.

Keep in mind that Stary Dom is just over 4 km from Warsaw’s Centrum. I’m a masochist so I decided to walk it but the tram will rip down there in under 20 minutes. You can also Uber or take a taxi, which takes no more than 10 to 15 minutes (and might be worth opting for if you’re dressed up).

Everything about Stary Dom blew me away. From the second you walk in it feels like you're stepping back in time. Fresh, quality, refined takes on Polish classics. This is a spot beloved by locals showing friends from out of town, those on business, and everyone in between.

Poland has somewhat adopted steak tartare as one of its most eaten appetizers which I'm not complaining about. It opts for local grain mustards and dill pickles rather than the French dijon and gherkins. No better way to start a meal off. And it's mixed tableside.

I followed it up with the classic Polish sour soup with fermented rye flour, something I've also started every meal with, along with far too many slices of bread.

I couldn't say no to the deer braised in red wine sauce with Silesian dumplings and pan-fried beetroot, which made me realize I need more deer in my life. Low-key the sweetness of the pan-fried beetroot stole the show and brought the dish together.

I capped it all off with a shot of some sort of plum brandy and a standard two-part fruit cake. I can emphatically state this is and was one of the best meals I've eaten in Europe.

Like Soul Kitchen and Patelnia Patera, Stary Dom is a dining highlight of the trip. 

If you went heavier for lunch, consider grabbing a traditional Polish street food, the zapiekanka, for dinner. Zapiekanki (plural) are toasted, open-faced sandwiches that you can customize with nearly every ingredient under the sun. 

Two Warsaw zapiekanka spots I whole-heartedly recommend are:

• Zapiexy Luxusowe: a more ‘fast-food’ feel type of joint toasting up delicious zapiekanki. 

• Zapiekanki Wisła: definitely more “gourmet” and high-end and by far my favorite zapiekanka in Warsaw. 

This is a beer blog and newsletter with the name ‘Pale Ale Travel’, so yes the final recommendation is beer-related. Cap the night off with a beer or two over at Kufle i Kapsle (various locations across Warsaw). It’s a relaxed yet lively brewpub with a fantastic selection of craft beers (12ish taps), friendly staff, and a mix of Korean-inspired bites. 

That’s it! We did it. You traveled to Poland like a boss. 

Fin. 

Subscribe For More Travel Itineraries & Eating Guides

Subscribe for travel itineraries, eating guides, and more tips to ensure a smooth trip. It really helps me out and lets me know you enjoyed the content! Please also feel free to share this with friends, family, or that one coworker who is always showing you photos of his DIY birdhouses. 

I hope this Poland travel itinerary (at least) provided you with some inspiration to begin planning a trip or gave you a starting point to better construct your own itinerary. I’m incredibly thankful for the opportunity I had to do this trip with my brother and truly will treasure it for the rest of my life. 

I’d also like to thank you for taking the time to read this and I hope that you have a fantastic Poland trip.

All I want to do is create high-quality content that helps people have unique, memorable experiences abroad (and meet unforgettable people). I don’t and will never write about anywhere or anything I’ve never personally done myself. I hope you join me for the ride. 

If you have any questions about traveling to Poland or would like further information on what I liked/loved and what I didn’t care for and/or would do differently, you can reach out to me via email ([email protected]). 

Travel well everyone,

Big Body